New Charger Owner 910 rwhp

[TheOtherDodge]

Hi, I just recently purchased a 2015 Hellcat Charger (ex coworker so I know the car) that made 910 rwhp via a package from a local performance shop. It has a DSS driveshaft and performance transmission.

He never took it to the track (not his thing) but I am preparing to.

I purchased beadlock drag radials and skinnys up front.

Now my questions and I have got some conflicting answers prior:
Which axles? Gforce Outlaw or Gforce Renegade? I don't plan on making any more power.
I will get a rear diff brace but do I need a front brace also?
Do I need a cradle lock? I was told either do the cradle lock or diff brace but not both.
Do I need the trailing/tension arms?
Where can I get a 4" driveshaft safety loop?

Anything else?

Thanks!

 

[Hunter]

Welcome and congratulations.
Lots of very knowledgeable people here, sure you will get an answer.

 

[Speedy!]

I ran stock axles for 6 years on my Hellcat that ran mid 9s and never had a problem with them.
I'd just do the DIRS-R diff brace on the diff.
You don't "need" a cradle lock, but I'd take it to the track a few times and see if you "want" one.
I'm not aware of any good drive shaft loops, but these cars hold the shaft in place with the exhaust so minimal risk there.

My motto is if it ain't broke don't fix it. Run the car a bit and find out what you want to do.

I'm assuming you're E85 with that kinda power, but make sure to run good fuel and data log at the track to make sure everything is on the up and up. Dyno sheets are one thing, actually performing at the strip safely is another.

 

[fumanchu182]

I have broken every drivetrain component we have on the cars except DSS axles. When/if you break whatever you have now, get a set of DSS axles.

 

[RGPIII]

definitely go with a set of the DSS level 5 axles, DIRS front and rear diff braces, cradle lock outs, AAD wheel hop elimination kit. drive shaft loop not needed.

 

[GNBRETT]

Wow If I had a $1 for everytime I said that I could buy a log cabin in Aspen to ski right off the mountain from.... lol. Get the Outlaws they're only a little bit extra but much stronger. Buy once, cry once.

I don't plan on making any more power......

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Throw the tires on it and run it.

 

[vortecd]

The biggest thing with stock axles if you get any wheel hop at that power level you will be likely to break 1. I have Renegade axles only because I bought them used. If I were to buy new the DSS seem to be the best thing out there now. The DIRS brace is a must

 

[RGPIII]

Gforce does not stand behind their products. Be very careful if you decide to use them. their axles do not hold up.

 

[Unholy707]

You don’t need any of that for 910 whp just send it. Not far off and I send it on stock 15 axles stock suspension arms, lots of passes

 

[2ndAmend]

Why replace what ain't broke?

 

[BigSwede]

I would just do the DIRS-R diff brace. Then if you start getting wheelhop think about some of the others.

 

[Unholy707]

Brace and cradle lock out, all that’s really needed at moderate power level. Cradle lock out by far has given me the best improvement, car plants and goes straight instead of kicking the rear end out

 

[NailBomb]

Hi, I just recently purchased a 2015 Hellcat Charger (ex coworker so I know the car) that made 910 rwhp via a package from a local performance shop. It has a DSS driveshaft and performance transmission.

He never took it to the track (not his thing) but I am preparing to.

I purchased beadlock drag radials and skinnys up front.

Now my questions and I have got some conflicting answers prior:
Which axles? Gforce Outlaw or Gforce Renegade? I don't plan on making any more power.
I will get a rear diff brace but do I need a front brace also?
Do I need a cradle lock? I was told either do the cradle lock or diff brace but not both.
Do I need the trailing/tension arms?
Where can I get a 4" driveshaft safety loop?

Anything else?

Thanks!

I ran GForce 300m axles in my 06 GTO and they were really nice pieces.

 

[fubar569]

I am at that power level (910whp @ Allpar Garage's MD before LT's, exhaust & chiller) and I'll be honest...the full monte isn't required but I wanted it to be dead reliable so...

I did the full AAD rear suspension minus toe rods, cradle lockout, diff lockout on pinion side only (laziness), DIRS brace & race brace, CCI driveshaft, S&M driveshaft loop (required if you do a driveshaft with a u-joint), 315/50/17 on beadlocks. Still on stock axles. I also have enough tabs to not only lockout the back half of the diff but also the bushing in the DIRS if that level of absurdity is ever required.

The only time this car hops is on an absolute trash surface or if I don't do my part between the burnout box and the tree/launch. High 1.4's PB and typically 1.5x consistently. Car is 105% full weight. I strip nothing out.

I would at an absolute minimum do the AAD wheel hop kit and a DIRS brace and go from there. That setup worked for me for a good long time til I wanted to eliminate more movement and go after the other sources.

EDIT: worth noting. I don't thing DSS warranties their driveshafts anymore without a cradle lockout? Thought I read that somewhere on here.

 

[Unholy707]

Cradle lockouts should be the first and #1 thing ANYONE does.

 

[TheOtherDodge]

Thanks all for the info.

 

[TheOtherDodge]

I got my DS safety loop today. Will get a cradle lock out and rear diff brace and take her to the track! Eventually, I will get axles.