School me on DR’s

[Slowpoke387]

So when I was racing motorcycles we used DOT race tires in certain supersport classes. Stuck like glue when they were hot. You could literally pick soft bits of rubber off of them after a race. But they were pretty useless when cold and so although they were DOT’s, street use was a dangerous proposition. They were hard as a rock cold and you could not realistically heat them up enough on the street to get them to optimal temps. Lots of crashes on the street with DOT’s.
Anyway this got me to thinking about DR’s and if they're similar in that aspect. For those who run them on the street, are you warming them up beforehand if youre running up against someone from a dig? Or are DR’s different than our motorcycle DOT’s and maybe the compounds are formulated to work at lower temps as opposed to full on race tires which need to be super hot, especially so with motorcycles.
I have a RedEye on order and am not wanting to be that guy who sits n spins while that stupid looking off camber Civic smokes me from a dig because he cant actually break loose lol. I never bothered with the Hellcat, but with even more hp on the way in the RE, I wonder if it will be even harder to launch and not just light em up without DR’s.

 

[ACMAVRO]

So when I was racing motorcycles we used DOT race tires in certain supersport classes. Stuck like glue when they were hot. You could literally pick soft bits of rubber off of them after a race. But they were pretty useless when cold and so although they were DOT’s, street use was a dangerous proposition. They were hard as a rock cold and you could not realistically heat them up enough on the street to get them to optimal temps. Lots of crashes on the street with DOT’s.
Anyway this got me to thinking about DR’s and if they're similar in that aspect. For those who run them on the street, are you warming them up beforehand if youre running up against someone from a dig? Or are DR’s different than our motorcycle DOT’s and maybe the compounds are formulated to work at lower temps as opposed to full on race tires which need to be super hot, especially so with motorcycles.
I have a RedEye on order and am not wanting to be that guy who sits n spins while that stupid looking off camber Civic smokes me from a dig because he cant actually break loose lol. I never bothered with the Hellcat, but with even more hp on the way in the RE, I wonder if it will be even harder to launch and not just light em up without DR’s.

I have stock tune, m6, lmi, and 10.5’s on back with nitto 305’s nt555r and I made 3 pulls today with no burnout. Just as you’d do at a light. 82F. My 0-60’s were 4.4, 4.1, 4.2. For stock m6 that’s pretty good/ok. W/o the dr’s on m6 you could add a second to each of those times. If I heated them up I might could get a tenth or 2, but honestly they only spun a little on the last 4.2 pull. They have 1k miles on em. You prob need some info from some auto guys

 

[DGatzby]

So when I was racing motorcycles we used DOT race tires in certain supersport classes. Stuck like glue when they were hot. You could literally pick soft bits of rubber off of them after a race. But they were pretty useless when cold and so although they were DOT’s, street use was a dangerous proposition. They were hard as a rock cold and you could not realistically heat them up enough on the street to get them to optimal temps. Lots of crashes on the street with DOT’s.
Anyway this got me to thinking about DR’s and if they're similar in that aspect. For those who run them on the street, are you warming them up beforehand if youre running up against someone from a dig? Or are DR’s different than our motorcycle DOT’s and maybe the compounds are formulated to work at lower temps as opposed to full on race tires which need to be super hot, especially so with motorcycles.
I have a RedEye on order and am not wanting to be that guy who sits n spins while that stupid looking off camber Civic smokes me from a dig because he cant actually break loose lol. I never bothered with the Hellcat, but with even more hp on the way in the RE, I wonder if it will be even harder to launch and not just light em up without DR’s.

You order a WB I hope? If so the message is good, mid-3’s 0-60 regularly on tap with big rollers and real street tires, otherwise you are in the same shape you were with just little, small, tiny, pussy size tires no matter if they have magic glue that won’t work on the street that will fit.

 

[Slowpoke387]

You order a WB I hope? If so the message is good, mid-3’s 0-60 regularly on tap with big rollers and real street tires, otherwise you are in the same shape you were with just little, small, tiny, pussy size tires no matter if they have magic glue that won’t work on the street that will fit.

Yeah Octane WB RE. No relation lol. If I go with aftermarket wheels do you think i need wider in the rear or is that going to start getting into rear diff brace territory, Trying to avoid warranty issues. It’s never going to see the track but i want to be able to smoke the local red light warriors too.

I have stock tune, m6, lmi, and 10.5’s on back with nitto 305’s nt555r and I made 3 pulls today with no burnout. Just as you’d do at a light. 82F. My 0-60’s were 4.4, 4.1, 4.2. For stock m6 that’s pretty good/ok. W/o the dr’s on m6 you could add a second to each of those times. If I heated them up I might could get a tenth or 2, but honestly they only spun a little on the last 4.2 pull. They have 1k miles on em. You prob need some info from some auto guys

Good to know. Sounds like from a dig DR’s mostly hook. With the motorcycles we would need at least a lap to get heat into them before hammering down. Im just thinking from a light situation. Thinking aftermarket wheels with DR’s and practice a little.

 

[Grape Ape]

Drag radials are definitely the way to go on these cars for getting traction from a dig or a slow roll. Anything else is pretty useless. You don't have to heat them up to notice a difference either. They just don't do well at all if you want to hit some curvy roads. That's why I have 2 sets of rears

 

[Slowpoke387]

Drag radials are definitely the way to go on these cars for getting traction from a dig or a slow roll. Anything else is pretty useless. You don't have to heat them up to notice a difference either. They just don't do well at all if you want to hit some curvy roads. That's why I have 2 sets of rears

Softer sidewalls is why theyre not as good in the curves? I'm guessing a wallowing feel?

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

I dont find my Nitto 315/20 05R’s to be too squirmy, but I dont push the car too hard in the corners as I still have my Pirelli AS up front. Straight line I like them alot. In the rain or dampness they suck, but you can tell that by just looking at them. Not a problem though, just have to drive smart.

 

[Slowpoke387]

I dont find my Nitto 315/20 05R’s to be too squirmy, but I dont push the car too hard in the corners as I still have my Pirelli AS up front. Straight line I line them alot. In the rain or dampness they suck, but you can tell that by just looking at them. Not a problem though, just have to drive smart. View attachment 18304

My Hellcat has never seen rain and the RE wont either so I'm not worried about that. Just dont want to give up too much overall drivability for the rare occasional launch from a light.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

I never intend on getting caught in the rain either, but it happens. Btw, I keep them at 29lbs. cold.

 

[Grape Ape]

Softer sidewalls is why theyre not as good in the curves? I'm guessing a wallowing feel?

Exactly

 

[EricG]

Softer sidewalls is why theyre not as good in the curves? I'm guessing a wallowing feel?

Mickey Thompsons do this more than Nittos, but Mickeys hook so much better it's not even a close comparison. I should say though, I have not tried the new second generation 555R's that just came out...

 

[TNREDEYE]

I have the Nitto NT05R's on the stock wheels on my WBRE. They work well for all types of dry road usage. I'll probably try the next gen 555R's once these are used up though.

 

[DGatzby]

Yeah Octane WB RE. No relation lol. If I go with aftermarket wheels do you think i need wider in the rear or is that going to start getting into rear diff brace territory, Trying to avoid warranty issues. It’s never going to see the track but i want to be able to smoke the local red light warriors too.

Good to know. Sounds like from a dig DR’s mostly hook. With the motorcycles we would need at least a lap to get heat into them before hammering down. Im just thinking from a light situation. Thinking aftermarket wheels with DR’s and practice a little.

Then make it easy on yourself. Get the largest rubber made for the street. I don’t think anything matters in the rear except getting rid of the crap bushings anyway you want. A good dealer won’t void your warranty for changing those parts to avoid wheel hop so you won’t destroy more parts. Then go buy whatever wheels and tires you need for the special use at the strip, and your covered for hop because you fixed the cradle bushings and the control arms. Bonus, get the AAD or other adjustable arms to get the specs in the rear to also sit the rollers more flat too. You will be happy.

 

[Slowpoke387]

Then make it easy on yourself. Get the largest rubber made for the street. I don’t think anything matters in the rear except getting rid of the crap bushings anyway you want. A good dealer won’t void your warranty for changing those parts to avoid wheel hop so you won’t destroy more parts. Then go buy whatever wheels and tires you need for the special use at the strip, and your covered for hop because you fixed the cradle bushings and the control arms. Bonus, get the AAD or other adjustable arms to get the specs in the rear to also sit the rollers more flat too. You will be happy.

Never going to the strip, def not changing wheels back n forth. Those days are long gone. Bushings are something i may do though.