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Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

coolblue

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So today being it was supposed to rain and it didn’t LOL so I did a leak down test on cylinders that were easy to get to which was 3, 5 and 7, 7 was the problem child that lead to this rebuild had to be honed the most due to a hair of heat distortion ( honed out only .0025” to get perfectly round and no taper) and became the target cylinder for the rest, it only has 1 1/2 % leak down at the moment I think that’s pretty damn good for gapped style rings COLD and less then 75 miles of run time!! Plateau honing and View attachment 48877 View attachment 48878 View attachment 48879 View attachment 48880 View attachment 48881 View attachment 48882 View attachment 48883 View attachment 48884 View attachment 48885 View attachment 48886 View attachment 48887 View attachment 48888 View attachment 48889 View attachment 48890 Quick Seat worked well together it looks like. Notice heat band on ground strap right about at the halfway point, perfect!!
Looks real good. There's so much alcohol even in standard unleaded fuel these days I didn't even think you could "read" plugs anymore. Nowa'days anytime time you pull them they just look clean and uniform gray. Pistons don't even look like they been fired!
 

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Any updates on how the new bullet is running?
 
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Thread Starter #463
Any updates on how the new bullet is running?
Sorry, been crazy busy, daughter and granddaughters in for the last week, taking them to the airport today to go back home :(
All has been good. The ticking heard on start up ended up being a exhaust leak on a header flange, I filled it with high temp putty and no more ticking, thank God as it had me worried I had a lifter issue. JBA sending me a replacement header free of charge, A++++ company. I pulled all the plugs and did a leak down test on every cylinder, all where right about 2% cold and dry, 100 in 98 out. I dumped the second fill of break in oil after seeing these leak down numbers at about 350 miles and on PUP 0w40 now. I’m still basically on my start up tune except for adjusted fueling, 10% across the board taken out on the injectors due to running -10% LTFT probably from the fuel line and rail delivery mods. This tune is only running 11.5 degrees max timing on straight 93 octane fuel. I had mixed in some 100 octane fuel with the 93 to keep things safe but logs are showing it’s not needed and running happy on straight 93 and at $9.89 a gallon for the 100 $4.25 a gallon 93 is costly enough averaging about 9 mpg as I’m not behind the wheel driving like grandma when I’m driving her lol. I’m at about 600 miles total since start up, did a few street 1/4 pulls which all where 11.9-12.1 at 126-127 mph, very consistent at this power level as wheel spin down low is MUCH tamer and easier to control then full kill corn tune is. I have to figure a way to detune her by mph like the auto guys can by gear. All in all VERY happy so far. Shifts butter smooth, I think the super rigid steel bell housing keeps alignment spot on as it just clicks through the gears now no crunchy hard shifts like before. The McLeod RXT1200HD is performing well, no issues with pedal feel, starts to grab about 1” from the floor, is a bit harder to start out with without shudder but if done correctly with proper throttle inputs can be done smoothly. I can’t wait to get back on corn and work on my goal of getting 10.9xx or better street 1/4’s accomplished!!
FB428F35-F805-46BC-B0BA-06EFB6693733.jpeg DD5E9B3F-DEA1-480C-B988-AFA9009EEBCE.jpeg 04FF2C78-12D5-4B56-A647-052F493A7355.png 61D6EB24-CE45-457A-9E4B-C1EFD965C1F3.jpeg 6D328674-F165-48E4-B712-54741E2D3A4C.jpeg 7E93CC28-D72B-4F9F-8F42-7B166276DA20.jpeg

O, BTW, I’ve got some drain plugs made up, I’ll be contacting guys in near future by order of the posts and DM’s for this first batch.

D89DB0DB-0891-476E-AF4B-1133BB3E4645.jpeg A95FC431-CC95-4DC5-B527-0F08EAC7714A.jpeg
 
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Glad to hear! Bummer on the header flaw, but kudos for great customer service
 
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Thread Starter #465
Removed the DSS Stage 5 axles yesterday and installed a set of Redeye axles. Test drive this morning, The RE units have much less NVH.
Added 1 degree of timing from 3500 rpm to 6500 rpm, gain 2-3 mph in street 1/4 time. Now at 12.5 degrees max timing on 93, I’ve run 14 before. Dialing in the gasoline portion of the tune and add that data to the Flex tune then start on corn soon. Logs show totally knock free runs, no knock anywhere, 2000 DA. Liking it, went home with a smile, high 10 second street 1/4’s around 140 on corn are looking more promising every day. Spun hitting 3rd or probably would have been an 11.5 or better run.
955627A1-30D5-44E1-A10F-B787938B7C4C.jpeg 404ED9D4-9406-406F-8168-F303F72A32A6.jpeg 78903A1C-41FD-4C27-97AC-12B1C58DEB50.jpeg E9FAAF91-4992-4D6B-AE52-35FF48A5C21D.jpeg 1A0B185A-384F-4C9B-9DD6-C5FFF2B9DD19.jpeg 956AFDB2-5F6E-4820-B7D0-E029BB15B0F8.jpeg C541E6B5-7823-4712-982D-A1A9221BE8B5.jpeg 8BCB4AD4-1D3D-4CD3-B97B-74CFCAA9677B.jpeg A7C6CEBD-358A-4C15-AE2A-AD2769CB8612.png
 
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Surprised about the axles noise, wouldn't think there would be any. I get the aluminum driveshaft but not steel axles
 
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Thread Starter #467
Surprised about the axles noise, wouldn't think there would be any. I get the aluminum driveshaft but not steel axles
When the DSS CV’s get play in them they start vibrating and get noisy. They replaced the onboard CV’s in November, now it’s the outboard ones. Hopefully they’ll replace all 4 this time or put me in their test program with their new secret ones they’ve been testing since last year.
 

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Removed the DSS Stage 5 axles yesterday and installed a set of Redeye axles. Test drive this morning, The RE units have much less NVH.
Added 1 degree of timing from 3500 rpm to 6500 rpm, gain 2-3 mph in street 1/4 time. Now at 12.5 degrees max timing on 93, I’ve run 14 before. Dialing in the gasoline portion of the tune and add that data to the Flex tune then start on corn soon. Logs show totally buckram runs, no knock anywhere, 2000 DA. Liking it, went home with a smile, high 10 second street 1/4’s around 140 on corn are looking more promising every day. Spun hitting 3rd or probably would have been an 11.5 or better run.
View attachment 50442 View attachment 50443 View attachment 50444 View attachment 50445 View attachment 50446 View attachment 50447 View attachment 50448 View attachment 50449 View attachment 50450
It's looking good Mike.

I put a set of Demon / RE. axles in mine also, a little peace of mind.
 
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Curious how you did the axle swap. Did you drop the diff or pull the spindles? I've only done it once and pulled the spindles.
 

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Curious how you did the axle swap. Did you drop the diff or pull the spindles? I've only done it once and pulled the spindles.

For me, I dropped the diff. , just like a diff. swap + the axle nuts & they slide right out. I think that's the easier way.
 

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I had trouble getting a wrench on the diff bolts, but that was my old car where they went in horizontal between the trunk pan and the diff. Hellcat does look easier.
 

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I had trouble getting a wrench on the diff bolts, but that was my old car where they went in horizontal between the trunk pan and the diff. Hellcat does look easier.
I bought a 21mm ratchet wrench just for those horizonal bolts, really fast.
Since I have done about 7 diff swaps for me & friends, that wrench has paid for it self many times over. Floor jack under diff, drop vertical bolts first, then the horizonal ones & the diff can be slid forward as you loosen them because they will bottom out on the trunk sheet metal.
 

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I did diff, axles and driveshaft at once but I think if I was going to do axles only I would do spindles. Either way it is a lot to take apart but dropping exhaust and diff to me doesn't look like the way to go
 

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Correction - 21mm ratchet wrench.
 

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I did diff, axles and driveshaft at once but I think if I was going to do axles only I would do spindles. Either way it is a lot to take apart but dropping exhaust and diff to me doesn't look like the way to go
Yeah I hear ya & that's what I thought too at first, I tried one side first that way & could not get the axle out with out literally taking all of suspension stuff apart, & I hate trying to realign all of it back. The exhaust I can have out in 15 minutes.
 

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I did diff, axles and driveshaft at once but I think if I was going to do axles only I would do spindles. Either way it is a lot to take apart but dropping exhaust and diff to me doesn't look like the way to go
That was a good idea to do all 3 at the same time. (y)
 
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Thread Starter #479
Curious how you did the axle swap. Did you drop the diff or pull the spindles? I've only done it once and pulled the spindles.
Pull the spindles. I’ve done it so many times I know the wrench sizes needed and all the TQ specs by heart lol. I can do each side in about an hour, 2 hour job to do both, 3 with cleaning the wheel wells and rims inside and out to look like new.
 

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Pull the spindles. I’ve done it so many times I know the wrench sizes needed and all the TQ specs by heart lol. I can do each side in about an hour, 2 hour job to do both, 3 with cleaning the wheel wells and rims inside and out to look like new.
I guess I just hate messing with taking all that apart then the realignment back.
And since I've done so many diffs I find it easy now.
 
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