Whipple now coming out with a hellcat 3.8

[GNBRETT]

Definately will NOT fit the Redeye stock hood. I do have an Anderson Composite CF raised hood I bought to fit the 3.8 dragpack that I was gonna use but now selling. Its brand new never installed sitting in box lol. Gonna put up for sale soon.

Thanks for the info Marc. Just waiting on Whipple to release pricing at this point.

Billet version looks really nice. Do you know if the 3.8 with the larger intercooler upgrade fits under a stock Redeye hood?

 

[GNBRETT]

Just be aware u will need very large injectors for this if ur looking to maximize the power. 1700's wont cut it. Ull need 2150's or 2600's which means 93 octane is out and E85 only or race gas. Not everyone has access to E85.

Or u could go 1700's and run less boost and still make great power and then pully up for 93 octane. 1700's will scale down that low but not the bigger injectors.

I wanted to do the drag week thing myself next year with my Trackhawk now that im retired and bored out of my F-ing mind!

Interesting....

So if your goals on the built engine are to go 8.50's and possibly push for low 8's in the future boost only would you go 3.8? Ultimately I am planning the build around being drag and drive capable so if I wanted I could do a race week with it.

 

[Marc W]

Just be aware u will need very large injectors for this if ur looking to maximize the power. 1700's wont cut it. Ull need 2150's or 2600's which means 93 octane is out and E85 only or race gas. Not everyone has access to E85.

Or u could go 1700's and run less boost and still make great power and then pully up for 93 octane. 1700's will scale down that low but not the bigger injectors.

I wanted to do the drag week thing myself next year with my Trackhawk now that im retired and bored out of my F-ing mind!

I agree with all of that. The 3.0 does fine on the 1700’s. The 3.8 can still run on them to a point but, before you get to it’s full potential…. they are maxed. We are now using 2150’s. They are not as user friendly but provide room in the duty cycle. The 1700’s were basically locked open with max fuel pressure with the 3.8. Here’s a thing though…. I don’t like the big injectors so far with my setup. I’m still using the 3.0 while the 3.8 has been on the blue car. We’re both using the 2150’s now. While they are great as far as fuel tuning at WOT (even with my 3.0), they have been cranky on startup and low speed throttle response. Trying to get the cold start (winter type cold) has been a bitch. Now that it’s warming up, it is getting better but for somebody wanting street car drivability, I would be reluctant to advise injectors bigger than the 1700’s. Just our experience so far.

 

[Marc W]

Interesting....

So if your goals on the built engine are to go 8.50's and possibly push for low 8's in the future boost only would you go 3.8? Ultimately I am planning the build around being drag and drive capable so if I wanted I could do a race week with it.

8.50’s boost only takes a maximum effort. A lotta cars running 8’s these days but most of them are spraying to do it. You just have to put together a combination of things including on point tuning to do it. As far as the drag and drive stuff goes….. you have to consider that a big hp boost only motor might not be the best choice compared to a less formidable setup that goes to the nitrous to get there on the track. Build the combination for what you’re going to do with it.

 

[RGPIII]

Man do I know that all to well I've been chasing this 8 second slip for some time now. I've been 9.0 many times. but I was still stock trans, stock bottom end.

 

[Marc W]

Man do I know that all to well I've been chasing this 8 second slip for some time now. I've been 9.0 many times. but I was still stock trans, stock bottom end.

A couple years ago I was of the opinion that there was a invisible barrier at 9.0 seconds. I ran so many 9.0’s it was ridiculous.

 

[jonx96]

So one problem with injectors is the difference in air quality. Just because in July the 1700s or 1650s are enough doesn't mean in November they will be. I just had this conversation with a customer this week. He spent 30k on an engine and a whipple. He wanted to go deep into the 8s and wanted to stick with c85 so that means no 2150s and would have to go 1700s. So he wanted an estimate of what he would run in crap summer air. I told him well with the pulley combo you have on the whipple right now low 9s. He was like well why did I spend this much money on the car. I said in the summer we could pulley down and go high 8s if you want. But when you race in really good DA in the late fall you would have to pulley up. So after a day of back and forth he is going 2150s.
All depends on the goal and the best air quality. 0 DA or better and an aggressive pulley combo I'd rather spec a little bigger. If you have a slight pressure drop then the injector can make up for it.

@Marc W you are right people don't realize how hard 8s are in everyday air without nitrous. Most people think I will just do a 3.0 Whipple and go 8s. That is just not the case.

 

[Marc W]

So one problem with injectors is the difference in air quality. Just because in July the 1700s or 1650s are enough doesn't mean in November they will be. I just had this conversation with a customer this week. He spent 30k on an engine and a whipple. He wanted to go deep into the 8s and wanted to stick with c85 so that means no 2150s and would have to go 1700s. So he wanted an estimate of what he would run in crap summer air. I told him well with the pulley combo you have on the whipple right now low 9s. He was like well why did I spend this much money on the car. I said in the summer we could pulley down and go high 8s if you want. But when you race in really good DA in the late fall you would have to pulley up. So after a day of back and forth he is going 2150s.
All depends on the goal and the best air quality. 0 DA or better and an aggressive pulley combo I'd rather spec a little bigger. If you have a slight pressure drop then the injector can make up for it.

@Marc W you are right people don't realize how hard 8s are in everyday air without nitrous. Most people think I will just do a 3.0 Whipple and go 8s. That is just not the case.

Another factor that people who don’t eat and sleep this crap all day aren’t really aware of is how much conditions (location) are a factor. There are some that enjoy below sea level air and prepped track week after week during times of the year. Houston area comes to mind 🤓 They run times and make everybody else look like a bunch of slackers. Out west in the land of cacti… we see a track with rubber on it and a da below 3000’ and it’s…. Yahoo!!!

 

[NoBrakes]

Definately will NOT fit the Redeye stock hood. I do have an Anderson Composite CF raised hood I bought to fit the 3.8 dragpack that I was gonna use but now selling. Its brand new never installed sitting in box lol. Gonna put up for sale soon.

Thanks, I saw on one of the Hellcat racing facebook groups that there is one of the 3.8 cars running a carbon redeye hood I just wasn't sure what difference there is clearance wise from the stock version.

Just be aware u will need very large injectors for this if ur looking to maximize the power. 1700's wont cut it. Ull need 2150's or 2600's which means 93 octane is out and E85 only or race gas. Not everyone has access to E85.

Or u could go 1700's and run less boost and still make great power and then pully up for 93 octane. 1700's will scale down that low but not the bigger injectors.

I wanted to do the drag week thing myself next year with my Trackhawk now that im retired and bored out of my F-ing mind!

I have been planning the build with Tim Barth. He told me he has tuning for the 2150's on E85. I plan to run the car on race E85 and will have to reevaluate possibly going flex tuning if I do plan on attending a race week in the future.

I agree with all of that. The 3.0 does fine on the 1700’s. The 3.8 can still run on them to a point but, before you get to it’s full potential…. they are maxed. We are now using 2150’s. They are not as user friendly but provide room in the duty cycle. The 1700’s were basically locked open with max fuel pressure with the 3.8. Here’s a thing though…. I don’t like the big injectors so far with my setup. I’m still using the 3.0 while the 3.8 has been on the blue car. We’re both using the 2150’s now. While they are great as far as fuel tuning at WOT (even with my 3.0), they have been cranky on startup and low speed throttle response. Trying to get the cold start (winter type cold) has been a bitch. Now that it’s warming up, it is getting better but for somebody wanting street car drivability, I would be reluctant to advise injectors bigger than the 1700’s. Just our experience so far.

Thanks for the information on the big injectors. I will bring this up to be sure it is the way to go. Obviously I understand with this stuff you will always have compromise and quirks to work around and you need to make sure your expectations are in line with that. I am just trying to do as much planning I can ahead of time to do it right the first time.

8.50’s boost only takes a maximum effort. A lotta cars running 8’s these days but most of them are spraying to do it. You just have to put together a combination of things including on point tuning to do it. As far as the drag and drive stuff goes….. you have to consider that a big hp boost only motor might not be the best choice compared to a less formidable setup that goes to the nitrous to get there on the track. Build the combination for what you’re going to do with it.

100%

I am by no means going into this thinking it will be easy it is just the goal I have in mind to plan the build towards.

That kind of gives me a different outlook on the nitrous side of things... Thank you for that.

Another factor that people who don’t eat and sleep this crap all day aren’t really aware of is how much conditions (location) are a factor. There are some that enjoy below sea level air and prepped track week after week during times of the year. Houston area comes to mind 🤓 They run times and make everybody else look like a bunch of slackers. Out west in the land of cacti… we see a track with rubber on it and a da below 3000’ and it’s…. Yahoo!!!

My local track is at roughly 800ft elevation.

 

[Marc W]

I’m using the fiberglass Kenne Bell cowel hood. These were originally designed to fit their big 4.9 supercharger. With a little bit of trimming on the underside in the rear, they will fit about anything. I like the hood. It’s light and uses the stock hardware. Fits tight and I have had it up to 184 mph with no issues. With the wipers and all that plastic shielding removed, it allows airflow under the hood to take the heat with it. It’s open enough to not allow for any pressure buildup. If the CF hood @GNBRETT speaks of selling is one of these….. buy it!

 

[GNBRETT]

I’m using the fiberglass Kenne Bell cowel hood. These were originally designed to fit their big 4.9 supercharger. With a little bit of trimming on the underside in the rear, they will fit about anything. I like the hood. It’s light and uses the stock hardware. Fits tight and I have had it up to 184 mph with no issues. With the wipers and all that plastic shielding removed, it allows airflow under the hood to take the heat with it. It’s open enough to not allow for any pressure buildup. If the CF hood @GNBRETT speaks of selling is one of these….. buy it! View attachment 104751 View attachment 104753 View attachment 104754

Yep, Anderson CF one. NIB. They are pretty similar just the CF is a little lighter. Not by much tho I bet.

 

[Marc W]

Yep, same exact one. NIB

The one I wanted but I was told 4 months to get it. So I opted for the fiberglass version in stock. The Anderson CF’s are beautiful 🤩

 

[GNBRETT]

I was actually on the fence on getting the KB one or AC. I really like them both cant go wrong with either.

The one I wanted but I was told 4 months to get it. So I opted for the fiberglass version in stock. The Anderson CF’s are beautiful 🤩