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Supercharger Teflon coating

coolblue

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#61
The numbers don’t come up on any searches, I’ve tried for days. I can get a seal the same ID OD and Width but no where close to the same lip design and unknown material. Google installing a Teflon oil seal, it’s easy on a tapered shaft designed for such but not on a shaft with no taper and 2 seals with 4 lips to get a frozen shaft through quickly, then do another as quickly right along side it while twisting and screwing the lobe mesh together. Remember these shafts turn 18-23,000 rpms, that’s some high surface speed for a contact seal to survive under. I made a tool to pre-fit Bonds Teflon seals correctly, will be sacrificing one fitted seal in a 275F degree oven test to see what it does to the fitted to size Teflon lip, Teflon grows like mad when heated, and if heated too much produces some really nasty for you fumes. Hopefully it doesn’t squash my plans of heating up the bearings and housing as an assembly in a 275F oven over night and then drop the frozen at minus 22F for a week rotors right in them stress free. If I can pull that off it will run forever even at 25,000 rpm input speed.
View attachment 16308
Two things. I'm no expert at blowers and you def have more knowledge on this, but I can't see how some quality moly lube (ARP) on the shaft of the rotors would hurt. I know they said to use no lube, but a slight coating of micro ball bearings would prob help immensely. Also, where'd you get a refrigerator good to -22. That commercial?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#62
Nope, just one made back when they made them right lol
B0D6E559-94B7-4A4D-A305-D247B5E1A2B6.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#63
My wife loves me lol
 


coolblue

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#64
My wife loves me lol
Don't poison the family by cooking the Teflon seals with dinner in the oven. LOL
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#65
Taper tool polished to mirror like finish to not scratch the Teflon material. There’s no getting a seal onto the shaft with out it, and if made too big stretches the seal too much, sacrificed a $50 seal learning lol.
image.jpg image.jpg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#66
See the fine line in the shaft near my index finger in bottom picture? That’s the place to stop stretching the seal at, that shaft has a very slight taper too it. Hopefully they retain their shape at 275 for a few hours, will find out this Saturday morning lol
 


coolblue

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#67
See the fine line in the shaft near my index finger in bottom picture? That’s the place to stop stretching the seal at, that shaft has a very slight taper too it. Hopefully they retain their shape at 275 for a few hours, will find out this Saturday morning lol
Understand why you made the tapered shaft. Understand why you're freezing the rotors. Why are you cooking the seal?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#68
Seals have to go in housing before the bearings, so heat bare housing to 275F over night so it expands. Have seals and bearings in freezer for a day or so. Seals will drop right into their bores in hot housing, so will bearings, clunk right in, no pressing or stress induced, they seat with no induced stresses. Then heat the whole thing again at 275 for a few hours again so bearing bores are expanded, frozen rotors should then drop right into the bearings (first through the can’t even see them any more pressure seal and the gear case oil seal, their 2 different size seals separated by a pressure release port system and also a oil leak drain system) they set in seconds to another stress free mating of the 2 angular contact literal super precision ABEC 9 bearing pairs per shaft. Then seat the heated to 275F also Larger gear onto the driven shaft as well. Set timing, install end plate, test spin, put gear cover on, fill with oil, done. Hopefully goes as easy as it said 🤞
9B9A8073-21D8-4D4E-B028-0E8C37D47DE4.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#69
Cooking the ruined seal at 275 to make sure I don’t ruin the 4 others doing such, as their $50 each as well :(
If that doesn’t work its plan 2, 50 ton H press and make up some precision face ground pressing plugs to push evenly on ID and OD of the bearing set at the same time on room temp parts, that should work too but I prefer the thermal seating method if I can pull it off
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#70
See the port in the blower inlet area? It’s connected to an area between the case pressure seals and the gear case oil seals, that area is under a vacuum and if pressure leaks it’s recirculated back into the rotors.
B9539D0C-67DE-42E9-8F3A-DC1973073E1D.jpeg B7D83B2C-EB6A-41E6-B139-13E7BAA5F7E9.jpg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#71
Now look on the belly of the blower, there’s 2 tiny vent ports under there, next to the seal balls. There connected to an area between the pressure seal and the gear case oil seals, any oil that gets by the seals will vent out through these 2 vents. The sealed gear case vents to this area as well through a small hole in the hollow driven rotors shaft, the bolt that holds the drive gear on has a tiny hole drilled through it and that’s how the gear case vents to atmosphere. That why you always want to store these blowers level not on end, or on their sides, upside down would be ok. 8CCC92FF-9D45-4F7C-9588-C4288AA63B94.jpeg 55D5B432-2030-4331-A346-C59E577ADAF8.jpg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#72
PS, I’ve never rebuilt or even taken a blower apart before, its learn and understand as you go based on 40 years of tearing shit apart that I’ve never seen before either, it’s what I do, but at work the stuff cost millions not a couple grand, difference is who’s wallet is paying for the learning curve :)
 


coolblue

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#73
This is a VERY INTERESTING and EDUCATIONAL post. You already answered some questions I had. I didn't want to keep peppering you with questions. Awesome info AND PICS.(y)(y)(y).
P.S. I work the same way. Most things fall into place or are answered from education you got from years of busting knuckles and laying on the cold ground in winter and turning wrenches. Hard parts and mechanicals are not a prob for me (except now I'm a little older and jaded and just don't want to do it a lot!) but I need to get up to speed on the electronics more. It's great you have access to some of the equipment you use at work. It's GREAT you post this stuff too. Thanks. @HellcatFan . Is there a way we can consolidate posts we want to save in a file on our personal page, to look at when we want, or for reference?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#74
Word to note here on AIR VENTS on bottom of Supercharger and the addition of THERMAL BLANKETS
Be sure to cut holes for these 2 vent ports so they can do their job and let gear case breath or your risk blowing out the oil seals!!
2D7116A1-79B1-4A80-9288-2B697A04AC86.jpeg FB4804FE-5384-4B34-BA05-8FDF0F97FA9B.jpg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#75
Seal passed the oven test, with stood 350F for 4 hours no change in lip tension or fit, so far looks like it’s going in the oven on the weekend lol
E72C9A20-9571-46DB-8055-719769584626.jpeg D3AB6C25-7B8A-4260-B0CC-CA4EFAF29DE4.jpeg
 


coolblue

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#76
Seal passed the oven test, with stood 350F for 4 hours no change in lip tension or fit, so far looks like it’s going in the oven on the weekend lol
View attachment 16351 View attachment 16352
Dude....That is Fuc&*^% GREAT! You have to change your avatar to MAD SCIENTIST . LOL. Next sign on the oven put "Test in progress... half life of nuclear material... Please do not touch." :LOL::ROFLMAO:
 


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#78
Interesting about the rotor tolerances. My theory is to why we see some “freak” cars for power and why some are the regulars. I know the 18+ blowers have different intake runners, but the 2015-17 is all the same. I’m sure if you have a “tight” 18 it’s making steam.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#79
Hopefully be starting in the blower soon, everything is in house except for me :(
 


TNREDEYE

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Good luck. I hope the assy goes well for you.
 




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