Looking for advice on clay bar cleaning

[2ndAmend]

I am considering doing my own clay bar cleaning. I have never done it before and know nothing other than what I have read and watched on-line, and most of it is polluted with ads.

The goal is to remove hard water spots and then apply ceramic. Is clay appropriate for this?

I would appreciate suggestions, advice, warnings, etc. For example, when will I know when the clay is full of contaminates and needs to be thrown away? Is a specific lubricant necessary or is car wash ok? How much clay do you need to do one car? Are some clays better than others?

And I need answers to all the questions I do not even know to ask.

Of course I could hire a pro, but half the time I do hire a pro to do anything, I find I could have done a better job myself for a lot less.

Thanks!

 

[jroyk]

I used Meguiars clay bar kit after parking under a tree that left a sap mist on it. The finish felt rough before and like glass afterwards. The kit contained one clay bar and a bottle of their quick detailer. Just sprayed an area and glided the clay bar over it. Plenty for one car.

 

[BULL]

I also use the Meguiar's bars, if your car is already "clean", one bar will easily do your entire car. I use either the car wash that I might already be using to wash, or if I'm actually doing the task as a separate deal, then I typically use Mother's detailing spray.


Here's how I describe the process, again starting with a "clean" car, but the surface has some level of contaminates on it. Liberally spray the surface with the Mother's, then as gently as you can, wipe the clay bar across the surface much in the same way you might wipe the surface with a towel, but more controlled and specific in where you're doing it. Use LOTS of spray, if the bar starts to drag AT ALL, you're not using enough spray. You should almost immediately feel a dramatic improvement in the "slickness" of the surface. (My car has never been dirty enough for this to not be true).

As soon as you seen any notable amount of particles or dirty surface on the clay, fold it over on itself, don't worry about trapping any of the spray in the folds, just go for it. Shape the clay bar to fit the general shape you're doing at the moment, flat surface, or curved, etc. Rinse and repeat until smooth and you're happy with the result.

Before I did it the first time, I couldn't overcome the feeling that the clay bar was going to drag the particles along with it and scratch up the surface. It just doesn't seem to be the case, but that being said, I don't do it frequently. Very limited in its use.


.02 only.

 

[DGatzby]

Use any clay you want. This makes a great “lube”. Be generous. When the bar looks dirty, play with it and bury the dirty. Just be gentle and pretend it is like a fine sandpaper. All should come fairly smooth without any stuff on the paint when it is right. It should not take too much pressure or trouble to clay.

 

[covidcommander]

Easy peezy just make sure your car is spotless clean before you start. I break the bar into 6 pieces. Use lots of detail spray. And I use one piece for 2 panels and throw it away.

Just make sure the paint is spotless before you start. No grit on it. If you don't think its clean wash it again.

You'll feel the difference when you're done. Always feel the paint with your hand. It should be smooth. They clay will stick at first but as it pulls out the dirt in the paint it will glide. That's what you want.

When you're done use a crapload of good wax. Or ceramic hybrid wax. Then it's not so permanent like ceramic.

Easy peezy.

 

[1971demon]

I also use the Meguiar's bars, if your car is already "clean", one bar will easily do your entire car. I use either the car wash that I might already be using to wash, or if I'm actually doing the task as a separate deal, then I typically use Mother's detailing spray.


Here's how I describe the process, again starting with a "clean" car, but the surface has some level of contaminates on it. Liberally spray the surface with the Mother's, then as gently as you can, wipe the clay bar across the surface much in the same way you might wipe the surface with a towel, but more controlled and specific in where you're doing it. Use LOTS of spray, if the bar starts to drag AT ALL, you're not using enough spray. You should almost immediately feel a dramatic improvement in the "slickness" of the surface. (My car has never been dirty enough for this to not be true).

As soon as you seen any notable amount of particles or dirty surface on the clay, fold it over on itself, don't worry about trapping any of the spray in the folds, just go for it. Shape the clay bar to fit the general shape you're doing at the moment, flat surface, or curved, etc. Rinse and repeat until smooth and you're happy with the result.

Before I did it the first time, I couldn't overcome the feeling that the clay bar was going to drag the particles along with it and scratch up the surface. It just doesn't seem to be the case, but that being said, I don't do it frequently. Very limited in its use.


.02 only.

Sound advice....have done it twice in 8 yrs. or so...if you car is garaged...or see's limited use...that;s all you need...a little trick I picked up from a grey beard Rolls Royce master detailer...refrigerate the lubricant..(detail spray...)

 

[DGatzby]

Sound advice....have done it twice in 8 yrs. or so...if you car is garaged...or see's limited use...that;s all you need...a little trick I picked up from a grey beard Rolls Royce master detailer...refrigerate the lubricant..(detail spray...)

Puts down that cold shine!
Had not tried that, but I’ll start to chill my Soeed Shine. It smells so good, hope I do not get any other ideas.

 

[MikeD1]

Lots of good info above, but I would add:

Use those cheap plastic disposable gloves (NOT latex!) to determine if the surface is smooth during & after the process. Any rough spots sill cause the glove to snag/drag & need to be re-done.

As for your intent to remove water spots, claybar will only remove stuff on the clearcoat surface ! Water spots (and sap that's been allowed to sit) typically have a surface element AND have also etched the clear or even into the paint. No amount of claybar finesse will fix the etching, that can only be done with machine polishing and even that may not completely fix all spots. Spots that have etched thru the clear and into the paint are permanent unless you are prepared to re-clear the panel after leveling the spots.

 

[2ndAmend]

Lots of good info above, but I would add:

Use those cheap plastic disposable gloves (NOT latex!) to determine if the surface is smooth during & after the process. Any rough spots sill cause the glove to snag/drag & need to be re-done.

As for your intent to remove water spots, claybar will only remove stuff on the clearcoat surface ! Water spots (and sap that's been allowed to sit) typically have a surface element AND have also etched the clear or even into the paint. No amount of claybar finesse will fix the etching, that can only be done with machine polishing and even that may not completely fix all spots. Spots that have etched thru the clear and into the paint are permanent unless you are prepared to re-clear the panel after leveling the spots.

I do not believe the surface is etched. I cleaned the glass with a razor then steel wool at it looks great. When it gets warm enough to take the car out of hibernation I will give the clay a try. Thanks everyone!

 

[2ndAmend]

It's Friday, maybe Hunter needs some of this!

 

[DGatzby]

I’m going out to do some Hellcat work tomorrow. In my world hibernation is when it gets real attention. Before the Speed Shine comes out this stuff happens under it. It is sort of magical. I’ll post up some pictures in the what have you done thread.

 

[1971demon]

Lots of good info above, but I would add:

Use those cheap plastic disposable gloves (NOT latex!) to determine if the surface is smooth during & after the process. Any rough spots sill cause the glove to snag/drag & need to be re-done.

As for your intent to remove water spots, claybar will only remove stuff on the clearcoat surface ! Water spots (and sap that's been allowed to sit) typically have a surface element AND have also etched the clear or even into the paint. No amount of claybar finesse will fix the etching, that can only be done with machine polishing and even that may not completely fix all spots. Spots that have etched thru the clear and into the paint are permanent unless you are prepared to re-clear the panel after leveling the spots.

That's why my cars NEVER see rain

 

[DGatzby]

That's why my cars NEVER see rain

Mine just will not even turn over if it is too cloudy.

 

[1971demon]

Mine just will not even turn over if it is too cloudy.

Same here...my wife thinks I'm crazy...like you I detail the underside..(even cut 2" strips of emery cloth to polish the exhaust...)

 

[Speedy!]

It's easy. If you're going to ceramic coat I recommend the following and I think I have some videos on doing this on my vehicles on the channel with the products I've used:

1. Decon wash to remove surface contaminants
2. Fallout remover - spray on, let soak, spray off pressure washer is best this removes iron particles etc.
3. Clay
4. Polish (I use 3D One it's a one step polish that the longer you polish the finer it gets and makes it easy. You'll need a polisher obviously.
5. Ceramic Coat - I've been using Adam's Graphene Ceramic and it's worked wonderfully and SUPER easy to use https://amzn.to/3NNTii4

The list looks harder than it is. The first three steps only take about an hour.

 

[2ndAmend]

Guy at the local detail shop was glowing about this, he said it was a new ceramic coat that was much easier and forgiving to apply. Anyone heard of this?

https://psdetailproducts.com/products/inspiration-stout

 

[MikeD1]

That's why my cars NEVER see rain

And why I only use water from my DI system for washing !

 

[MikeD1]

Guy at the local detail shop was glowing about this, he said it was a new ceramic coat that was much easier and forgiving to apply. Anyone heard of this?

https://psdetailproducts.com/products/inspiration-stout

I use (and love) their Bead Maker product as a quick detailer/refresh but have not tried their ceramic coat.

 

[DGatzby]

Same here...my wife thinks I'm crazy...like you I detail the underside..(even cut 2" strips of emery cloth to polish the exhaust...)

Ha I remember you posting that b4. I may need to try that. Mine needs a bit of restoration this year. 150+ mph is not kind if even the debris is small pieces of rubber. Soon I need to buy a new set of those soft gray crap bottom trim items. Then have my wrap at the bottom and especially those rear flairs replaced.