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Anybody try a JL Audio Stealthbox Subwoofer for Challenger?

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#1
Just like the title reads, anyone have any experience with this subwoofer? I bought the Performance Spare Tire kit, but still have the factory subs in the tire well and keep trying to find some subs custom fit to the car, so I can mount the spare where it belongs. Any opinions? 7DF586D4-D243-480B-9B02-89389B094B73.jpeg 0B7FC7DB-97B3-40A6-9B4E-EBF11F0658F7.png
 


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Slowpoke387

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I think maybe if you have the Alpine it may be a step up but looking at that - it looks really shallow. I dont know that it would actually be a step up from the HK.
 


Boris

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I have been out of the audio game for a long time
But I installed a few of these in cars in the past and those little 10/12" subs they pack in there can really pump out the bass.

Go talk to a place that installs them and ask or maybe they have one they can demo
 


Grape Ape

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Anything made by JL is very good stuff. I have not heard this exact model, but every other JL stealth box that I have heard sounds very good.
 


vortecd

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I found a box made to fit my last Mustang and put in a 10" Kicker. So there may be more options
100_2150.jpg 100_2149_00.jpg
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
I think maybe if you have the Alpine it may be a step up but looking at that - it looks really shallow. I dont know that it would actually be a step up from the HK.
I understand what you mean, regarding the sound of the two 10” HK subs (which I have in the car now) vs the single 12” JL Audio sub, which also requires a separate amp. However, my objective is to get a spare tire in the well now occupied by the HK subs. If I lose a little bass doing that, I can live with it. I bought a spare tire kit, but hate having it bouncing around, loose in the trunk and taking up a bunch of room. Besides, I have horrible hearing already, I’ll probably never know the difference!
 


landoawd

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#7
I had one in my SP, and it was quite boomy for a shallow box. Still have it, in fact, since I'm too lazy to box it and ship it.
 


TMAC

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I'm going to try one. Is the 'box' plastic or fiberglass?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
I'm going to try one. Is the 'box' plastic or fiberglass?
They’re fiberglass, I believe. I bought one locally for sale on Craigslist. Looks good, well made. Fairly heavy for its size. I haven’t had it installed (along with a new 500 watt JL amp) yet. Next week.
 


TMAC

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Before I try the Stealthbox, I am going to price a custom box that fits in the same space made of 3/4" MDF, glued, braced and covered with a material that matches the trunk.
My biggest issue with the Stealthbox is the PRICE. I understand JL Audio stuff is good stuff, but the specific driver in the Stealthbox (13TW5v2-2) is not one of their top shelve drivers. This driver is around $310. So the box is $460. That's outrageous.
The driver I want to use is the 13TW5v2. Either a 2 or 4 ohm, doesn't matter. I will just get whatever amp is necessary. The 2 ohm is hard to find. This is a much higher quality woofer that actually needs less space in the box. The Stealthbox is 1.25 cu ft. The driver I want to use only needs .8 cu ft.
 


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OP
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Thread Starter #11
I bought some 3/4 MDF and was going to try to make something up like you’re referring to, but didn’t want to end up with a bunch of time into it and not have it look 100%. The Stealthbox absolutely looks like it’s OEM when I placed it in position, for what that’s worth. I tried to find someone that made custom boxes to fit, but was unsuccessful. There’s another thread on here that had to do with spare tire setups which had information from another forum member who had custom boxes made for both sides of the trunk. I actually contacted the person that owned the audio shop that made them, but could never get them to even give me a price. Finding the Steathbox on Craigslist for $150 seemed like I couldn’t pass it up. Combined with the Perfomancespare, I can have a trunk, spare tire where it belongs and hopefully, good (enough for an old half deaf guy like me) sound.
 


TMAC

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Wow. Smokin deal there. For $150 I would have gone for it as well.
 


Grape Ape

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The key to building a great sub box is having the correct air volume inside of it. The next thing is running the correct amount of power for it. All well known woofer brands will work great if the box is built right and have the correct amount of good clean power. Building a box isn't too hard in MDF and only moderately more difficult in fiberglass.
 


droptopp

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I run a 12” in the GTR and hits extremely hard. JL has the best subs for tight enclosures, great design to allow for air movement.
 


TMAC

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#15
Does anyone know what the maximum mounting depth can be for the front door 6x9's?
 


TMAC

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So its on. I am starting to lay in the pieces for the stereo upgrade. A few things I still need to dig into a little more, but the major components are set.

For a sub I will use the JL Audio 13TW5v2-2. Got lucky and found a brand new 2 ohm version in the midwest so I grabbed it. 13.5" dia and only requires a .85 cu ft sealed box. 600W capable. I will have a separate volume control for the sub.
For the other speakers I'm going with Focal PS 165 F3's. A 3 way component speaker with x-overs. Bought 2 pair of these.
The rest of the pieces I will gather over the next 3 or 4 weeks. These will be...
Custom box that fits like the Stealthbox on the side and out of the way for the subwoofer.
An Audio Control DM-608 DSP to bring in the signals from the factory head unit and drive the 2 amps.
For the sub amp, a JL Audio XD600/1v2 Monoblock, 600 W @ 2ohm
For the 4 ohm 3 way cabin speakers a ZAPCO Z-150.4-2 4 channel amplifier, 165W/ch @ 4 ohms.

The only thing I still need to decide on is what signal I will use to go from the head unit to the DSP. I can do speaker level or a digital Toslink. The DSP does have an input for this. Leaning toward the digital interface but still looking into it.
 


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Whatknot

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I'm not an expert by any means, but learned about over sizing amps. If at the maximum volume level you want, your amps are only at about 2/3 power, they sound a lot better than an amp trying to work really hard. If you think you want 200 watts going to a sub, buy a 300 watt minimum amp.
 


TMAC

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I'm not an expert by any means, but learned about over sizing amps. If at the maximum volume level you want, your amps are only at about 2/3 power, they sound a lot better than an amp trying to work really hard. If you think you want 200 watts going to a sub, buy a 300 watt minimum amp.
Absolutely. If you have to use anywhere near close to peak power just to hear it, there's no reserve left when a loud passage is played, so your dynamic range goes in the toilet. My home theater is all Krell, and I run very powerful amps, so anything I listen to is very lively. Music and movies.

This is a reaI learning experience. I am going to do something in this car stereo setup I have never done before. I am going to run the speakers without the included passive x-overs. So going active.
If you really want your DSP to be able to do everything it is capable of, this is the only way to do it.
If I want to use TOSLINK digital as the amp input, I have to use a single amplifier. While there are splitters, nobody thinks using them is a good idea. Apparently they are very unreliable. So that means I need a single amplifier, DSP with 12 seperate channels of power and a digital input. After looking around, I am going to use one of these.....
https://www.bestcaraudio.com/product-spotlight-helix-v-twelve-dsp-amplifier/
 


Grape Ape

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Absolutely. If you have to use anywhere near close to peak power just to hear it, there's no reserve left when a loud passage is played, so your dynamic range goes in the toilet. My home theater is all Krell, and I run very powerful amps, so anything I listen to is very lively. Music and movies.

This is a reaI learning experience. I am going to do something in this car stereo setup I have never done before. I am going to run the speakers without the included passive x-overs. So going active.
If you really want your DSP to be able to do everything it is capable of, this is the only way to do it.
If I want to use TOSLINK digital as the amp input, I have to use a single amplifier. While there are splitters, nobody thinks using them is a good idea. Apparently they are very unreliable. So that means I need a single amplifier, DSP with 12 seperate channels of power and a digital input. After looking around, I am going to use one of these.....
https://www.bestcaraudio.com/product-spotlight-helix-v-twelve-dsp-amplifier/
That's one bad ass amp! It sounds like you need a sound engineering degree to set it all up though. :ROFLMAO:
 


TMAC

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That's one bad ass amp! It sounds like you need a sound engineering degree to set it all up though. :ROFLMAO:
I have the right guy and its definitely not me. You need an RTA setup to do it the right way.
 




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