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Grout Filling the block, as the Aussies say

clv22p

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#21
Or just buy a SMX and not have to worry about head gaskets or water jackets ever again. Can someone lend me 45k?
You have the other $30K?
That's what I was thinking...wheres the rest?? Oh and that's the starting at price...
 


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#22
And consider the car and components wrapped around an SMX… geesh. Race cars are expensive.
Building it is just a fraction of the cost. Slow is just as much fun and mega cheaper.

Steve Morris has broken 3 SMX motors the last 3 events.
 


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Thread Starter #23
The only reason to do this is if the target power level of the build is going to exceed the capability of the stock block. We’re talking 2000hp here 😳. That being the case… there’s a lot more to it than just pouring some stuff in the block. There is a sequence of steps in doing this right. That includes precise (expensive) machine work, cleaning, pouring/filling with temperature control and then more machine work. Of coarse the other option is one of the billet blocks available now for around $15k. With another couple $K in finish machine work. I’ll have $5k total in mine when done.
Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I'm waiting for the guys to run down to Lowes and pick up some grout and start pouring it in the radiator!
 


clv22p

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#24
Building it is just a fraction of the cost. Slow is just as much fun and mega cheaper.

Steve Morris has broken 3 SMX motors the last 3 events.
I don't understand how he keeps going...I'd be so over drag racing after the last few months he's had. That weekend at Route 66 where he had the transmission out and torque converter apart 3 times would have done me in. Not to mention the simultaneous 8 rod explosion he had.
 


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#25
I don't understand how he keeps going...I'd be so over drag racing after the last few months he's had. That weekend at Route 66 where he had the transmission out and torque converter apart 3 times would have done me in. Not to mention the simultaneous 8 rod explosion he had.
That's drag racing when you're making huge power. I like it simple and sweet as I can get it.
 


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#26
Sorry if this has been stated already, but if you do this, can you still drive the car normally? Or do you have to give that up? Normally being like driving for an extended fashion Grand Touring style?

I can only assume that track/road racing would be right out...
 


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Thread Starter #27
My understanding is with a "full fill" you have no water pump (essentially) so driving the car is basically out - it's a full out race car. I know the Aussie guys "say" with a half fill they still drive them around. How much that really is, I have no hands on proof. But in direct relationship to your question - I would say autocross or open road racing would be out in my opinion even with the half fill. Unless the cooling system was already so over spec'd that losing half the passage volume in the block wouldn't cause excessive heat build up.
 


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#28
Sorry if this has been stated already, but if you do this, can you still drive the car normally? Or do you have to give that up? Normally being like driving for an extended fashion Grand Touring style?

I can only assume that track/road racing would be right out...
Nope.
 


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#29
Running on ethanol helps, it keeps temps down considerably, methanol even more.
A street/strip car can be half filled without much hassle.
https://youtube.com/@stevemorrisracing
Regarding Steve Morris… yeah, a “good string of bad luck”… as they say. Horrible circumstances surrounding a lot of his heartache. He is an amazing guy, he takes it in stride, and stays calm-cool-and collected. One of my favorite channels on YouTube, and I recommend it to any car guy.
You can tell by the comments that he addresses in his videos that he has a bunch of “new” car guys watching his stuff, and a bunch of old dogs that have been at it for 50 years that still have something to learn, and a lot to share.
 


clv22p

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#30
Running on ethanol helps, it keeps temps down considerably, methanol even more.
A street/strip car can be half filled without much hassle.
https://youtube.com/@stevemorrisracing
Regarding Steve Morris… yeah, a “good string of bad luck”… as they say. Horrible circumstances surrounding a lot of his heartache. He is an amazing guy, he takes it in stride, and stays calm-cool-and collected. One of my favorite channels on YouTube, and I recommend it to any car guy.
You can tell by the comments that he addresses in his videos that he has a bunch of “new” car guys watching his stuff, and a bunch of old dogs that have been at it for 50 years that still have something to learn, and a lot to share.
Definitely one of my favorite YouTube channels as well. Always something to learn there.
 


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#31
Generally, half filled blocks can still be driven normally for several hours without issue on cars with an srt/hellcat radiator and factory oil cooler. I’ve done it a few times and my coolant temps stay steady at 185F.

Full fill, you can forget about it. It’s a race car now and you’ll probably need a pit vehicle to push or pull your race car around the track.
 


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#32
$45k? Try $85k..... The SMX has water jackets.

Or just buy a SMX and not have to worry about head gaskets or water jackets ever again. Can someone lend me 45k?
 


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#33
Or an Aluminum block. They're only $7500 and its a 100 lbs lighter than an Hellcat block. Just another option.....

The only reason to do this is if the target power level of the build is going to exceed the capability of the stock block. We’re talking 2000hp here 😳. That being the case… there’s a lot more to it than just pouring some stuff in the block. There is a sequence of steps in doing this right. That includes precise (expensive) machine work, cleaning, pouring/filling with temperature control and then more machine work. Of coarse the other option is one of the billet blocks available now for around $15k. With another couple $K in finish machine work. I’ll have $5k total in mine when done.
 


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#34
$45k? Try $85k..... The SMX has water jackets.
Let me clarify, water jackets that you would care about, they don't run vertical they run horizontal, no fluids are ever going to be allowed in by a lifted gasket.
 


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#35
Running on ethanol helps, it keeps temps down considerably, methanol even more.
A street/strip car can be half filled without much hassle.
https://youtube.com/@stevemorrisracing
Regarding Steve Morris… yeah, a “good string of bad luck”… as they say. Horrible circumstances surrounding a lot of his heartache. He is an amazing guy, he takes it in stride, and stays calm-cool-and collected. One of my favorite channels on YouTube, and I recommend it to any car guy.
You can tell by the comments that he addresses in his videos that he has a bunch of “new” car guys watching his stuff, and a bunch of old dogs that have been at it for 50 years that still have something to learn, and a lot to share.
He's a down to earth guy.
 


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#36
At what power level do you think this is a must for? 1500? 1800? 2000?
 


Marc W

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#37
At what power level do you think this is a must for? 1500? 1800? 2000?
Hard to say. People like numbers. I’ve heard 1200. I think that’s conservative. There are a lot of us making beyond that with 1200+ whp and I’m not hearing about block failures being a problem by itself. I would guess that at 1500 crankshaft hp you’re entering the danger zone. Of coarse that’s if everything else is right. There are a lot of internals that help to keep things together. Main caps/bolts. Cylinder head studs. Have you checked the cost of a set of those off the top shelf? The list is long and gets longer when you really start pushing it.
 


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#38
Hard to say. People like numbers. I’ve heard 1200. I think that’s conservative. There are a lot of us making beyond that with 1200+ whp and I’m not hearing about block failures being a problem by itself. I would guess that at 1500 crankshaft hp you’re entering the danger zone. Of coarse that’s if everything else is right. There are a lot of internals that help to keep things together. Main caps/bolts. Cylinder head studs. Have you checked the cost of a set of those off the top shelf? The list is long and gets longer when you really start pushing it.
Reason I ask is I’m waiting on a Demon 426 right now and I asked a little too late in the process to have it half filled. Want to make sure I’m not going to have issues. Has billet mains, tool steel pins, 625 studs. All the right parts. Just not the half fill part.
 


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#39
I know of a few block failures in the 1200 - 1400 power range. It's not common, but it does happen. There's no magic number where it becomes "required". It's just a matter of whether the perceived risk is worth the cost to minimize at whatever power level you're targeting. Below 1400, I'd say the risk is low, but it's not insignificant. If you're looking to build and are thinking of making 1200 or more, I would take the option if I could afford it. Conservative? Sure, but it's based on experience.

For me, it's a no brainer, block failure risk is high for me and even if were to do a full fill, it can still happen (and has happened to others) without me turning it up anymore than I've ever tried so far.
 


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#40
Marc, any idea how much extra weight the fill adds? Just curious buddy was asking and I have no clue thanx

Doing mine this week. Just got it back from cleaning and it’s ready to start the process.
 




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