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Has anyone got tips on drag racing the 1320?

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#1
Just got this 2020 1320 and wanna go to the local track on street night and do a little racing. Help on tire pressures and transbrake rpms would be nice. I'm not new at this but my race car runs in the 4's at the small tire shoot outs and makes about 1800 at the wheels. But this is a fun thing to take the kids to and show them that no matter how fast or slow it can be fun.

Thanks

Linemmup
 

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#2
lookup DemonChild on youtube.
 

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#3
Don't
 

Stormtrooper1320

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I played with air pressure in the rear tires and put them all the way down to 17 psi. and even with a good burnout, they stock drag radials still wanted to spin. I only took mine to the track a few times and didn't see the need to keep beating on the car given the spin-fests I kept having.

Get yourself a set of 17 or 18 inch rims and tires for the rear and use those for the track. It wasn't long after I got the car that Dodge put out an announcement that said to quit trying to race on 20 inch drag radials. They said that there isn't enough sidewall on the 20 inch tires to flex and to just get a set of 18's like the Demon came with. I found that to be awesome after I had purchased a drag oriented car from them that came with 20 inch drag radials. Why didn't they just put the 18's on it from the factory.

Don't try to leave on a high rpm........spinfest.

I gave up on the factory transbrake. If you make a mistake during any part of the process, you have to start over. I missed the simplicity of the one button transbrake like I have on my drag car, so I just footbraked the 1320. I wanted to try just using the linelock in the 1320 for launching to see if that worked any better. The car seems to work better if you leave just above an idle. I was tacking it up like I do with my drag car, and the 1320 would just anhililate the rear tires doing it that way, well out past the 60ft.

Try everything and see what works for you. Good luck and have fun with the car.
 
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Thread Starter #5
I played with air pressure in the rear tires and put them all the way down to 17 psi. and even with a good burnout, they stock drag radials still wanted to spin. I only took mine to the track a few times and didn't see the need to keep beating on the car given the spin-fests I kept having.

Get yourself a set of 17 or 18 inch rims and tires for the rear and use those for the track. It wasn't long after I got the car that Dodge put out an announcement that said to quit trying to race on 20 inch drag radials. They said that there isn't enough sidewall on the 20 inch tires to flex and to just get a set of 18's like the Demon came with. I found that to be awesome after I had purchased a drag oriented car from them that came with 20 inch drag radials. Why didn't they just put the 18's on it from the factory.

Don't try to leave on a high rpm........spinfest.

I gave up on the factory transbrake. If you make a mistake during any part of the process, you have to start over. I missed the simplicity of the one button transbrake like I have on my drag car, so I just footbraked the 1320. I wanted to try just using the linelock in the 1320 for launching to see if that worked any better. The car seems to work better if you leave just above an idle. I was tacking it up like I do with my drag car, and the 1320 would just anhililate the rear tires doing it that way, well out past the 60ft.

Try everything and see what works for you. Good luck and have fun with the car.

Thanks for that info. I guess ill invest in some 18" wheels and a set of race slicks. If I need to go that route I would just as soon buy something that is proven to work. If you gotta change tires at the track then use something that will work. Have you looked into a different tune for the car?
 

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#6
I played with air pressure in the rear tires and put them all the way down to 17 psi. and even with a good burnout, they stock drag radials still wanted to spin. I only took mine to the track a few times and didn't see the need to keep beating on the car given the spin-fests I kept having.

Get yourself a set of 17 or 18 inch rims and tires for the rear and use those for the track. It wasn't long after I got the car that Dodge put out an announcement that said to quit trying to race on 20 inch drag radials. They said that there isn't enough sidewall on the 20 inch tires to flex and to just get a set of 18's like the Demon came with. I found that to be awesome after I had purchased a drag oriented car from them that came with 20 inch drag radials. Why didn't they just put the 18's on it from the factory.

Don't try to leave on a high rpm........spinfest.

I gave up on the factory transbrake. If you make a mistake during any part of the process, you have to start over. I missed the simplicity of the one button transbrake like I have on my drag car, so I just footbraked the 1320. I wanted to try just using the linelock in the 1320 for launching to see if that worked any better. The car seems to work better if you leave just above an idle. I was tacking it up like I do with my drag car, and the 1320 would just anhililate the rear tires doing it that way, well out past the 60ft.

Try everything and see what works for you. Good luck and have fun with the car.

Thanks for that info. I guess ill invest in some 18" wheels and a set of race slicks. If I need to go that route I would just as soon buy something that is proven to work. If you gotta change tires at the track then use something that will work. Have you looked into a different tune for the car?
I had thought about tuning but decided not to. I did put on a ported throttle body for a short period of time and that worked good for the initial throttle response. The car seems pretty adequate (at least for what I was doing as my daily driver) when you put the car in Drag mode.

A set of wheels and tires seems to make the biggest difference right off the bat.
 

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#7
But this is a fun thing to take the kids to and show them that no matter how fast or slow it can be fun.

Thanks

Linemmup
Did you leave out the part about crashing and dying?
 

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Thread Starter #9

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#10
There are a few that have made the transbrake work for them but from trying it on my Daytona it seemed no faster then foot braking it for me.
Try different rpm's to leave off the foot brake to find what is the best for your car. On my Daytona and Hellcat I load the suspension and leave from there which is around 1000 -1200 rpms
 

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I wouldn’t buy 18s you might as well have the 17s . Most guys will run MT street R 305 who don’t want to massage the inner fender. The trans brake is rubbish IMO , foot brake it and watch those lights . The NA cars are very different to launching a cat , obviously less power and geared differently. I usually go for 18 psi as a starting point if the track preps good and I’m hooking I’ll let go up as it does with heat until I’m not hooking . Launching rpm is something you’ll have to figure out depending on the track , I’ve had success at 2200-2500 with great track prep down to just off idle particularly when doing bracket racing ( I can get my reaction time better and more consistent) . I have a tune and it’s probably good for.2 over the quarter, I’ve run a best of 11.16 just the tune wheels tyres and pulled the easy weight out . Dragging a few extra rpm I think works by running in M1 and allowing the car to shift itself . A splash of MS 109 makes me feel better about not leaning the car out .
 
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#12
Just got this 2020 1320 and wanna go to the local track on street night and do a little racing. Help on tire pressures and transbrake rpms would be nice. I'm not new at this but my race car runs in the 4's at the small tire shoot outs and makes about 1800 at the wheels. But this is a fun thing to take the kids to and show them that no matter how fast or slow it can be fun.

Thanks

Linemmup
The Nexens do not hook on a cold track....I went with a set of 17" Mickeys on 9.5" rims and that worked well for me. Trans brake is a waste, foot braking at 2500 RPM gave me my best 60' (1.643)
 

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#13
Just got this 2020 1320 and wanna go to the local track on street night and do a little racing. Help on tire pressures and transbrake rpms would be nice. I'm not new at this but my race car runs in the 4's at the small tire shoot outs and makes about 1800 at the wheels. But this is a fun thing to take the kids to and show them that no matter how fast or slow it can be fun.

Thanks

Linemmup
I run a 2019 1320 and love it. Definitely ditch the stock Nexen and get some 18 inch MT SS drag radials for the rear and skinnies for the front if you can. Until you can get some, run the stock rears at 22 PSI. Ran consistent 11.92-96 at 1300 ft DA. With the 18s, I ran 11.8 range. With the skinnies, it is hard to believe, but I am running in the 11.7s; with a best of 11.65. I attribute that to weight of the stock tires and rims on the front as well as the drag they create being a pretty sticky tire. Most of my bracket stuff is on an 1/8 mile track here in Bremerton and run consistent 7.54-56, with a best of 7.501 at 1130 ft DA. Transbrake is has been a hard one to get a grip on with how the car is set up. I haven't found an RPM or accurate staging position to be able to consistently leave on third bulb. If I barely stage on footbrake at 1500, I can consistently hit sub .020 lights. On transbrake at 1800, third bulb is at .090-.105. I am going to try to bring the RPM up to about 2500, roll in as deep as possible without actually deep staging and see what happens. I will likely just continue foot braking at races though until I can get the timing right with the transbrake though. Consistency is key after all, right?
 

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I run a 2019 1320 and love it. Definitely ditch the stock Nexen and get some 18 inch MT SS drag radials for the rear and skinnies for the front if you can. Until you can get some, run the stock rears at 22 PSI. Ran consistent 11.92-96 at 1300 ft DA. With the 18s, I ran 11.8 range. With the skinnies, it is hard to believe, but I am running in the 11.7s; with a best of 11.65. I attribute that to weight of the stock tires and rims on the front as well as the drag they create being a pretty sticky tire. Most of my bracket stuff is on an 1/8 mile track here in Bremerton and run consistent 7.54-56, with a best of 7.501 at 1130 ft DA. Transbrake is has been a hard one to get a grip on with how the car is set up. I haven't found an RPM or accurate staging position to be able to consistently leave on third bulb. If I barely stage on footbrake at 1500, I can consistently hit sub .020 lights. On transbrake at 1800, third bulb is at .090-.105. I am going to try to bring the RPM up to about 2500, roll in as deep as possible without actually deep staging and see what happens. I will likely just continue foot braking at races though until I can get the timing right with the transbrake though. Consistency is key after all, right?
Welcome.
Love the input.
Any pics of your car?
 

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Welcome.
Love the input.
Any pics of your car?
This was last year at the Mopar Nationals in Woodburn Oregon. Made it to quarter finals in Modern Mopar category. This was before I got the skinnies in the front. No more tape either. The MT drag radials don't spit much rubber off them which is great. 20200719_101334.jpg
 

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#16
I wouldn’t buy 18s you might as well have the 17s . Most guys will run MT street R 305 who don’t want to massage the inner fender. The trans brake is rubbish IMO , foot brake it and watch those lights . The NA cars are very different to launching a cat , obviously less power and geared differently. I usually go for 18 psi as a starting point if the track preps good and I’m hooking I’ll let go up as it does with heat until I’m not hooking . Launching rpm is something you’ll have to figure out depending on the track , I’ve had success at 2200-2500 with great track prep down to just off idle particularly when doing bracket racing ( I can get my reaction time better and more consistent) . I have a tune and it’s probably good for.2 over the quarter, I’ve run a best of 11.16 just the tune wheels tyres and pulled the easy weight out . Dragging a few extra rpm I think works by running in M1 and allowing the car to shift itself . A splash of MS 109 makes me feel better about not leaning the car out .
Not sure what end links are on your car, but 17s wont fit on the 1320s without replacing the end links. Too long and rub on the rim. 18s were the biggest you can get under em. Was gonna replace with the BWoody links but not really needed right now. I am fine with the 18s. I still manage to pull 1.69 60ft at 1500 rpm.
 
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