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Hellcat Ice Tank Testing Results

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#1
Last year we decided to do some testing on an ice tank setup in our shop Hellcat to see what sort of data we could get. The car has an ATI 10%OD lower with a 2.65" Metco upper.

- Before the tank -
In about 2300-3000DA and 80-90°F ambient temps we would be at the starting line with around 100° intercooler fluid temp. This was after cooling the car off in the pits with a Tazer. Going through the traps we would see around 153-158° intake air temp and about 120-130° intercooler fluid temp.

- After the tank -
In the same DA and ambient temps we would be at the starting line with around 34° intercooler fluid temp. Going through the traps we saw intake air temp drop to 90° thanks to intercooler fluid temp dropping to 75°!
The below picture is our tank while sitting in the staging lanes. It was dark so the picture quality isn't the best but at 34° that fluid is almost at freezing temp! We made some modifications to the tank and plumbing to bring it to OST standards but this was a great modification for our car. We will now be installing these modified tank systems in house.

 

Thawkmike

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#2
Great results. Sometimes old and low tech is the way to get the job done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Hpindy

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#3
I have a question .
Do you still use antifreeze in the heat exchanger system?

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Micah-OST Dyno
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Thread Starter #4
I have a question .
Do you still use antifreeze in the heat exchanger system?

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No. Only when we store the car for the winter.
 

Hpindy

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#5
No. Only when we store the car for the winter.
So the tank is the new resiviour for the heat exchanger system?

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Mean Cat

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Very nice , what changes did yall make on the tank ? … or lines ?
I always thought that the drain should be in the front side of the tank vs. in the bottom of the tank where it's hard to get to.
 

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Thread Starter #8
So the tank is the new resiviour for the heat exchanger system?

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Correct.

Very nice , what changes did yall make on the tank ? … or lines ?
I always thought that the drain should be in the front side of the tank vs. in the bottom of the tank where it's hard to get to.
The drain location/drain line was one of the most significant modifications we did. It's still on the bottom but the valve is located in front of the tank for easy access. We also changed the fittings/hose between the SC and ice tank to make it easily removable without taking the entire cowl off. We also made our own unions as the one included did not fit and we needed two rather than only one. We also added a 6AN bung and plug to the front of the passenger fuel rail so we can drain the fuel as this tank covers the fuel supply line to the rail. In the future we will also be adding an air bleed so the pump does not air lock when filling the tank.

Yes.
 

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Correct.



The drain location/drain line was one of the most significant modifications we did. It's still on the bottom but the valve is located in front of the tank for easy access. We also changed the fittings/hose between the SC and ice tank to make it easily removable without taking the entire cowl off. We also made our own unions as the one included did not fit and we needed two rather than only one. We also added a 6AN bung and plug to the front of the passenger fuel rail so we can drain the fuel as this tank covers the fuel supply line to the rail. In the future we will also be adding an air bleed so the pump does not air lock when filling the tank.



Yes.
Cool, it seems there was some debate at the old forum on how effective this product it sitting right above the exhaust manifold. Did you apply any thermal barrier to the bottom of the tank? Also do you think this would function well as a larger reservoir for a chiller system or would it draw too much heat in it's current location for street driven use?
 

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The drain location/drain line was one of the most significant modifications we did. It's still on the bottom but the valve is located in front of the tank for easy access. We also changed the fittings/hose between the SC and ice tank to make it easily removable without taking the entire cowl off. We also made our own unions as the one included did not fit and we needed two rather than only one. We also added a 6AN bung and plug to the front of the passenger fuel rail so we can drain the fuel as this tank covers the fuel supply line to the rail. In the future we will also be adding an air bleed so the pump does not air lock when filling the tank.


Very good , so your selling these tanks with all of the upgrades ? … I don't need the fuel draining prevision.
On the air bleed , as long as you don't drain water below the lines it should be ok , correct ?
 

Mean Cat

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Cool, it seems there was some debate at the old forum on how effective this product it sitting right above the exhaust manifold. Did you apply any thermal barrier to the bottom of the tank? Also do you think this would function well as a larger reservoir for a chiller system or would it draw too much heat in it's current location for street driven use?
Yeah , the location is a concern , some stick on heat barrier would help.
 
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Thread Starter #12
Cool, it seems there was some debate at the old forum on how effective this product it sitting right above the exhaust manifold. Did you apply any thermal barrier to the bottom of the tank? Also do you think this would function well as a larger reservoir for a chiller system or would it draw too much heat in it's current location for street driven use?
It's extremely effective at the track. Driving around on the street will eventually melt the ice. I did a thermal blanket on the bottom with thermal tape on the sides. After making two passes in hot lap (back to back with no cooldown) we let the car sit for about two hours with the hood closed while we worked with customer cars. There was still ice in the tank when I opened it later.

The drain location/drain line was one of the most significant modifications we did. It's still on the bottom but the valve is located in front of the tank for easy access. We also changed the fittings/hose between the SC and ice tank to make it easily removable without taking the entire cowl off. We also made our own unions as the one included did not fit and we needed two rather than only one. We also added a 6AN bung and plug to the front of the passenger fuel rail so we can drain the fuel as this tank covers the fuel supply line to the rail. In the future we will also be adding an air bleed so the pump does not air lock when filling the tank.


Very good , so your selling these tanks with all of the upgrades ? … I don't need the fuel draining prevision.
On the air bleed , as long as you don't drain water below the lines it should be ok , correct ?
We are not selling them on our site with the upgrades. However we are installing in-house with the upgrades.
You can drain below the lines without issue but you cannot turn the key on while doing so. This activates the pump and sucks air. You also cannot bleed the system without pressurizing the tank (if you drain your entire system). This is why we need an air bleed. We had an issue at the track where I drained/filled the tank while the car was being flashed with a tune revision. It took a lot of effort to get fluid back to the pump and around the air lock.
 

hellno

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So it doesn’t sweat??
 

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It's extremely effective at the track. Driving around on the street will eventually melt the ice. I did a thermal blanket on the bottom with thermal tape on the sides. After making two passes in hot lap (back to back with no cooldown) we let the car sit for about two hours with the hood closed while we worked with customer cars. There was still ice in the tank when I opened it later.



We are not selling them on our site with the upgrades. However we are installing in-house with the upgrades.
You can drain below the lines without issue but you cannot turn the key on while doing so. This activates the pump and sucks air. You also cannot bleed the system without pressurizing the tank (if you drain your entire system). This is why we need an air bleed. We had an issue at the track where I drained/filled the tank while the car was being flashed with a tune revision. It took a lot of effort to get fluid back to the pump and around the air lock.
After installation & refill , if you don't drain below I/C lines it should not air lock.

Not fair that your only doing upgrades to tank that yall are installing , doesn't help the rest of us.
 

Hickster

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#15
Couple questions,, why not us inhibited glycol for your coolant system. It works from ice systems that work at 24 F below. Want freeze up, want boil over and want break down, quickly. Sweating of the equipment. Use 1" or " 3/4 Armaflex?? Blow down. Thought about using an air separator and or air eliminator to prevent blow down? Mount at the highest point and automatically blow off air.
 
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