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Let's be honest. How hard is it to drop the cradle...

16GoManGoHC2

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#21
Any reason not to go with the whiteline?
I agree with post right before this one, NVH mainly
 


Old Mopar Guy

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#22
The front part of the diff can be done very easily if your diff brace is disconnected. The rear part you absolutely must drop the cradle.[/QUOTE said:
Any sense to half assing the job like this? I really don’t want to screw with dropping the cradle again since I already did the BMR lock out kit.
 


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fubar569

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Thread Starter #23
I could really only see sense in doing the front half of the differential by itself If you had an extreme or Billet brace in the back limiting movement there.

I converted to the DIRS/Race brace so I also did the front half of my diff at the same time. I currently do NOT have the rear of the diff done as I have the DIRS back there and I'm waiting for an additional 4 wedges from BMR because my plan is to lock out all 3 bushings.
 


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#24
@fubar569, thanks for the info. I failed to mention I do have the DIRS installed. So I guess you would suggest just doing the front fwiw? Can’t hurt right?
 


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fubar569

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Thread Starter #25
One of the installation videos shows the user having the DIRS/Race brace with a full diff lockout.

It's an added measure but not always needed.

I will be doing all 3 bushings as soon as the extras from BMR come In.
 


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#26
I wouldn’t mind just doing whatever I can without dropping the cradle again but don’t know if I can do just the front. I’d have to crawl under to see. Naturally I wouldn't do a partial install if it was a drivers side passenger side thing. I’ve read guys drilling through the trunk floor to access the d/s long bolt but I’m not cutting up the car either.
 


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fubar569

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Thread Starter #27
I wouldn’t mind just doing whatever I can without dropping the cradle again but don’t know if I can do just the front. I’d have to crawl under to see. Naturally I wouldn't do a partial install if it was a drivers side passenger side thing. I’ve read guys drilling through the trunk floor to access the d/s long bolt but I’m not cutting up the car either.
I dont know how far the diff will drop with the 2 DIRS pieces in place.

Once I disconnected my old extreme and unbolted the front of the diff the diff dropped a solid inch or more. The rings slid in without an issue. That gives you an idea of how much play there is in those 2 rear bushings.

I also would never cut the car to access that bolt. That's just ridiculous.

Once piece one of the DIRS was in...I did the snout lockout and race brace.. then piece 2. All went together very smooth.
 


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#28
Great. No prob dropping the DIRS. Thanks.
 


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fubar569

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Thread Starter #29
Glenn at BMR is supposed to be handling the extra parts for me.

Once they come in I will be doing the cradle lockout using the one side at a time method at first but I won't bolt the cradle back in place completely...instead I will let it rest on the bolts and jack until I can get it prepped and centered on the pad and then lower it just enough to do the back half of the diff before putting it all back together. Then the final bushing will be the one in the DIRS itself. I may need to modify the washer to help retain the lockout wedges by spot welding a shim to it. We'll see.
 




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