Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

[16GoManGoHC2]

It’s in and on the mounts. I tell ya, yes, it can be done through the top with out removing the hood but I NEVER want to do it again this way, NEVER!!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Btw the the pump pick up tube goes on before the windage tray ......

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Sure, now you remember!! After I tried and it wouldn’t work and I had to take it all back apart again from underneath it IN the engine bay!! I made a Custom pick up tube support as I didn’t like sandwiching the mount between 2 nuts on the ARP stud. Was worried G forces would snap it off, it won’t break this!!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

And then after it’s in I see the back of the pan isn’t flush with the block. Loosened the bolts, moved the pan, tightened things back up and it’s right back to being misaligned, WTF!!
So I had to drop the pan, and what did I find? The nuts of the rear studs hit the inside of the pan and push it bac towards the trans. See the aluminum on the nuts from the pan? I had to pick the motor back up and relieve the pan for them so it’s not

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

And in removing the ARP pan hardware some RTV must have gotten on one of the bolts in the aluminum of the front cover and locked up, I tried working it back and forth, added WD49, penetrating oil, and it just got tighter until it wouldn’t move and broke off, FU$K!!! So I had to seal off the pan and drill it out, what a BITCH!!! But now it’s flush with the back of the block. I wonder how many installs are like this??? I’ve never heard o the pan needing relieved for the studs??? Word to note, it does!!!!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

So tomorrow it’s but the back plate on, fly wheel, scatter shield and check it for centering with a dial indicator and hope it’s bang on or it’s hours of f’ing around to get it dead nuts. It has to be on center with the crank and face parallel to the fly wheel witching .005” to make me happy, .002” is what I’d like to see, we shall see tomorrow. Time for breakfast and bed, this old mans BEAT!!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

This is what it looked like going in. Leaving the pan and oil pick up off have just enough clearance with the heads on to get it over the cowl. The headers where 1/2” too wide to drop in, had to loosen the driver side one to gain some play, tightening it back up after the engine was in was FUN!! Take note how the pan is now below the cowl, it was fun getting it on from in the engine bay alone. Not once but twice!! Then to take it off yet again once it was in, SWEET!! I’m a expert now!!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here’s some info on the JBA shortie headers. They weigh 13 lbs less and port size is much bigger then stock, they got to flow better.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here’s another addition I made, a SUPER magnet drain plug. 11 lbs of pull with over a 6” field, it’s field extends to under the oil pick up and should grab anything magnetic before it has a chance to go up the pick up or get stuck in the screen. I’m thinking of making a batch of these, anyone interested let me know, be about $45 each plus shipping.

 

[vortecd]

Here’s some info on the JBA shortie headers. They weigh 13 lbs less and port size is much bigger then stock, they got to flow better.
View attachment 48157 View attachment 48158 View attachment 48159 View attachment 48160 View attachment 48161 View attachment 48162 View attachment 48163 View attachment 48164 View attachment 48165

I'm sure they flow better but only matters if there is a restriction
I'm a suckers for headers and will buy some just to prove they don't help

 

[vortecd]

Were you able to use the stock header gaskets or are they to small? The ones that come with the JBA's like weak

 

[BULL]

Here’s another addition I made, a SUPER magnet drain plug. 11 lbs of pull with over a 6” field, it’s field extends to under the oil pick up and should grab anything magnetic before it has a chance to go up the pick up or get stuck in the screen. I’m thinking of making a batch of these, anyone interested let me know, be about $45 each plus shipping.
View attachment 48166 View attachment 48167 View attachment 48168 View attachment 48169

Heat that magnet up to 240f and re-measure the pull.

Then maybe we'll talk.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Heat that magnet up to 240f and re-measure the pull.

Then maybe we'll talk.

It’s a 300F rated magnet, I’ve used this brand before, they hold up excellently in hot oil. If you get one and it looses its pull I’ll give you your money back how’s that?? 😉

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Were you able to use the stock header gaskets or are they to small? The ones that come with the JBA's like weak

Used SRT gaskets, perfect fit. I used 2 larger diameter bolts in the centers to keep them perfectly centered until all the others where snug and pushed them out.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I'm sure they flow better but only matters if there is a restriction
I'm a suckers for headers and will buy some just to prove they don't help

PERFECT!! Please do and let us know. If anything they sure look bad ass and shaved off 13 lbs from the front end. I’m sure they’ll help when it comes to spray time 😉
Did you happen to look at the port size measurements? The stock ones the welds where large snd protruded into the flow area like a sphincter, that has to be a choke point

 

[coolblue]

Here’s another addition I made, a SUPER magnet drain plug. 11 lbs of pull with over a 6” field, it’s field extends to under the oil pick up and should grab anything magnetic before it has a chance to go up the pick up or get stuck in the screen. I’m thinking of making a batch of these, anyone interested let me know, be about $45 each plus shipping.
View attachment 48166 View attachment 48167 View attachment 48168 View attachment 48169

Love it. Interested. I have the Mag on my oil filter but would love that in the pan. Thanks for the offer to the members.

 

[coolblue]

And in removing the ARP pan hardware some RTV must have gotten on one of the bolts in the aluminum of the front cover and locked up, I tried working it back and forth, added WD49, penetrating oil, and it just got tighter until it wouldn’t move and broke off, FU$K!!! So I had to seal off the pan and drill it out, what a BITCH!!! But now it’s flush with the back of the block. I wonder how many installs are like this??? I’ve never heard o the pan needing relieved for the studs??? Word to note, it does!!!!
View attachment 48152
View attachment 48151

Holy sh&* that's alot of work for such a small PIA type of thing. Godam aftermarket, every time it's something! Thank god this isn't the old days with cork gaskets and silicone. Or JUST a fat bead of silicone for a bead. What a mess that've been. Your a trooper for sure. March on.
BTW where'd you find that thing??? An 11lb magnet that fits perfectly in the bolt end!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Holy sh&* that's alot of work for such a small PIA type of thing. Godam aftermarket, every time it's something! Thank god this isn't the old days with cork gaskets and silicone. Or JUST a fat bead of silicone for a bead. What a mess that've been. Your a trooper for sure. March on.
BTW where'd you find that thing??? An 11lb magnet that fits perfectly in the bolt end!

It’s custom made, by me of course lol. Magnet is press fit 1/4” into new OEM plug.

 

[coolblue]

It’s custom made, by me of course lol. Magnet is press fit 1/4” into new OEM plug.

DK if it's worth your time to do only one if no one else is interested but if it is PM me when ready. I want one. I'm glad this project is progressing and coming together for you.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

DK if it's worth your time to do only one if no one else is interested but if it is PM me when ready. I want one. I'm glad this project is progressing and coming together for you.

I’ll make a few in the next week or 2 and give you a shout 👍

 

[Felt]

I’ll make a few in the next week or 2 and give you a shout 👍

I'm in for one! Let me know when you make some.