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Will 315s fit?

DRAGRCR

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#41
I love my stock brakes, not giving those up.
Same wheel dimensions. 17X10 +30 Fits no problem after a LOT of work. Yes they would touch that corner of the gas tank shield in full droop. But not enough to cause any problem mounting the wheels/tires on the car. So I left mine unmodified. I also did the standard wheel tub mod as well. Just so you know the Billet Specialties Win lite has .200 less back space. Just sayin.......... 0519201800.jpg DSCN2936.JPG
 


Hpindy

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#42
Same wheel dimensions. 17X10 +30 Fits no problem after a LOT of work. Yes they would touch that corner of the gas tank shield in full droop. But not enough to cause any problem mounting the wheels/tires on the car. So I left mine unmodified. I also did the standard wheel tub mod as well. Just so you know the Billet Specialties Win lite has .200 less back space. Just sayin.......... View attachment 68546 View attachment 68547
They look really good on there ..

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Marc W

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#43
15 in conversation is a little aggressive for me too . I still have the stock hellcat brakes on the rear and the demon setup on the front .

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I’ll say this about that… 🙃. As long as the car is driven “normally” on the street around corners, the 15” conversion a good one. The two piece Wilwoods are not going to give up your stopping performance on the street while retaining the OE fronts. The tall sidewall tires soften the ride nicely after going to the hard cradle lockouts and control arm bushings. They make for a pleasantly cushy ride. Those big marshmallows take the shock out of the initial hit and put the power to the ground 1000% better when you start approaching that 1000whp point. The biggest thing is consistency. The frustration of wasted runs when it doesn’t hook. The wasted time and money when the track is “no good”. The more hp you make the more often that’s the case. I’ve driven the 15’s on the street for some time with the Radial Pros and they are great for comfortable cruising, and the really impressive thing is, on the occasion you roll hard into the power on the highway….. it plants and pulls. It would never do that on the 17’s. 479D57AD-3099-41E5-BDBF-091455A3C31F.jpeg
 


vortecd

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#44
My car doesn't spend enough time at the track to justify the amount of money to go to a 15". I don't see anything wrong with it other then the cost. Doing just the rears from the get go wouldn't be too bad though. So many more options with a 15" drag radial
 


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Speedy!

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Thread Starter #45
I run 20s on the street.
 


vortecd

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#46
I run 20s on the street.
If I were to do a 15" conversion I would still run the 20's on the street
 


Hpindy

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#47
I’ll say this about that… . As long as the car is driven “normally” on the street around corners, the 15” conversion a good one. The two piece Wilwoods are not going to give up your stopping performance on the street while retaining the OE fronts. The tall sidewall tires soften the ride nicely after going to the hard cradle lockouts and control arm bushings. They make for a pleasantly cushy ride. Those big marshmallows take the shock out of the initial hit and put the power to the ground 1000% better when you start approaching that 1000whp point. The biggest thing is consistency. The frustration of wasted runs when it doesn’t hook. The wasted time and money when the track is “no good”. The more hp you make the more often that’s the case. I’ve driven the 15’s on the street for some time with the Radial Pros and they are great for comfortable cruising, and the really impressive thing is, on the occasion you roll hard into the power on the highway….. it plants and pulls. It would never do that on the 17’s. View attachment 68567
I agree with you but some of use have different aspersions for our cars .. I'm willing to compromise some track stuff in the name of street ..

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Marc W

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#48
I agree with you but some of use have different aspersions for our cars .. I'm willing to compromise some track stuff in the name of street ..

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I agree that the cost vs use (how much of it) is a factor. The brake conversion itself doesn’t keep one from running any street wheel/tire combination you want. You aren’t required to run around on the Staypuffs all the time. 😆 The conversion when done right is going to add up to a lot of money though and if serious track use isn’t a part of the car experience then it’s not going to be worth it. I tend to look at the cost of stuff like this as to whether it’s “spent” money or not. Spent money is gone. That would be things like gas, food, travel expenses. Stuff that you can resell is money in the bank. When you’re done with it…. You get your money back reselling it. I sold my brake conversion and wheels and suspension pieces when I moved to the next level and got a decent percent of that money back so it wasn’t as expensive as you think. Hell!…. I just sold my old trailer I’ve used for three years for more than I paid for it. Lol 😝
 


Hpindy

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#49
I agree that the cost vs use (how much of it) is a factor. The brake conversion itself doesn’t keep one from running any street wheel/tire combination you want. You aren’t required to run around on the Staypuffs all the time. The conversion when done right is going to add up to a lot of money though and if serious track use isn’t a part of the car experience then it’s not going to be worth it. I tend to look at the cost of stuff like this as to whether it’s “spent” money or not. Spent money is gone. That would be things like gas, food, travel expenses. Stuff that you can resell is money in the bank. When you’re done with it…. You get your money back reselling it. I sold my brake conversion and wheels and suspension pieces when I moved to the next level and got a decent percent of that money back so it wasn’t as expensive as you think. Hell!…. I just sold my old trailer I’ve used for three years for more than I paid for it. Lol
I hear ya. I'm not against the 15 in conversation but some of don't need it ....yet ... Lol .. the no grind 15 kit is pretty nice ..

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#50
Unless the rules dictate a DOT tire, why not try the Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial?
28x10.5-17.
 


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#51
Unless the rules dictate a DOT tire, why not try the Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial?
28x10.5-17.
I think those are some good tires but for some of us they do need to be DOT. I told Hoosier years ago they need a 28-29" tall DOT drag radial in a 17" They would have sold lots if they would have did back then. I have run Hoosier in the past and love them
 


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#52
Hoosier is missing the boat on D2 DOT Radials too.
Nothing in a 28-29 in. for us.
 


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#53
Anyone have pictures or video of the 315 install?
 


vortecd

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#54

DavidKFla

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#55

fumanchu182

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#56
Did someone say booty meats?

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fumanchu182

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#57
295/65r15 just in case anyone was asking, plenty of stock around and is what @HighHorseman was running for a long time. When I scoped it at Cecil I took notes, plagarism is the best form of flattery.
 


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#58
I have the forgestar d5s. 17 x 10 for the narrow body. And with the Hoosier radial slicks which are around 31 inches tall I do not get rubbing at the track. They are screwed to the rim. But when I get lazy after going to the track at 10pm and load the trunk up with 150-200 pounds of stuff they do rub. Maybe with a spacer they would not rub. I was thinking of running the Mickey Thompson radial front runners on the street which are six inches wide as compared to the 4 or 4.5 inch ones from the other manufacturers and a tall drag 17 inch radial on the back. Then no changing at the track. But I think someone told me the bead lock should not be run on the street. I can always not have them beadlocked.
 


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#59
These are sitting in my garage all deflated due to time. The last time I was at the track was the beginning of January. At a da of 4300 they were good enough for about a 1.37 60 foot and a 9.60.
 


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