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Catch Can; how is yours?

jroyk

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#81
Yes, running hard for 30 minute sessions, OAT never higher than 75. I call up the performance pages APP on the UConnect screen and have oil pressure and oil temperature displayed on the track. At NCM on May 29/30th I was WOT for 5-6 seconds three times on the long straights every lap, with RPM's constantly up and down between 3,000 and 6,300. I thought I'd see hotter oil, especially the few times I pitted without a cool down lap, but 233 was it.

I found this marketing blurb about the upgrade SRT oil filter a while ago (there are two that are OEM filters). Your oil isn't dirty, but note that the Red Eye engine has two high flow oil pumps. In the "leaving no stone unturned department", I wonder if there is a way to know that both are working in your car? Just a thought...

"Mopar SRT engine oil filter is worth slight cost increase because the high flow oil pumps in our large engines can overpower the internal relief valve. When this valve opens it allows some of the high pressure dirty oil to bypass the filter element in order to keep the filter from being damaged. The SRT filters do indeed have a higher differential bypass valve to make sure all the oil delivered to your power plant is clean. The housing is slightly thicker than many of the brands out there to handle the pressure. The media used is one of the latest synthetics that allows very fine filtration, more debris capacity, and much lower restriction than our standard Mopar filter. The final result is cleaner oil, all the time, with more pressure to the internals where it is needed.”
I just have to wonder why Redeyes, Demons (and Hellephants?) came with a standard MO-899?
 

McLovin

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#82
I guess the oil filter info is more than I need for this discussion. I have used the same filter for two Hellcats now. 60-72 psi oil pressure okay with you? SRT did not comment that I had a problem with the SRT filter installed. That probably don’t effect the SC with its sealed lube system anyway. But, heat conductance could be a problem is my point.

Outside air temps on your sensor at 75 degrees? Was the outside real air temp 40?? That reading is usually at least 20-30 degrees in excess of the ambient air temp depending on speed.

I am looking forward to lots of analysis as to what was working and not working. 11 days of research and investigation better well uncover something. I know things will be much, much different in that engine compartment when I drive it again. If I see 290 or more degrees, they get to answer for that. Either mine was way off hot or you need to put the hammer down. I still stand by my statement, I have seen 230+ oil temps just practicing a bit on back roads and 50 degree air temps on that RE engine. I know that because I made notes in May when I was testing the alignment settings. I saw 230-250 oil temps that Sunday in the rain and without much WOT at all. As soon as I got serious, it got up to 290.

Does anyone else see their Redeye heat up to a 228-230 degree water temp after a cold start before it allows return to about 200 degrees?

Not a Redeye, but I see in excess of 270 oil temp at the end of a 20 minute track session.

Never noticed the coolant temp doing that on startup, but I'll specifically look for it to see what mine does...
 

PaVaSteeler

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#83
On my 2015 Scat Pack, after four years, 34,000 miles and over 175 runs on a drag strip, I had drained 22.8 ounces of oil from my catch can.

I only have 6,400 miles on my 2019, and only 89 runs on the strip; maybe at most 3.5 ounces collected.

As mentioned previously, the Arrington CCV Bible suggests extensive WOT driving might even prevent oil from being captured by the catch can, but control of crankcase pressure is even more important for FI cars than us NA slugs.
 

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#84
Sorry about the table formatting and all of this being displayed as a single post from DGatzby. Dunno why it does that sometimes...

I guess the oil filter info is more than I need for this discussion. I have used the same filter for two Hellcats now. 60-72 psi oil pressure okay with you?

On track 60-69 psi is what I'm seeing. Don't think it has ever been over 69 psi.

"SRT did not comment that I had a problem with the SRT filter installed. That probably don’t effect the SC with its sealed lube system anyway. But, heat conductance could be a problem is my point."

Roger on the SC getting hot from a hot engine via conductance. The SRT filter is 100% approved - I buy them from the dealership for about $5 more than a regular filter. I posted that only to highlight there are two oil pumps. I agree probably not important to the discussion.

"Outside air temps on your sensor at 75 degrees? Was the outside real air temp 40?? That reading is usually at least 20-30 degrees in excess of the ambient air temp depending on speed.

Just a high of 75 noted at both track weekends - from my phone's weather app.

"Does anyone else see their Redeye heat up to a 228-230 degree water temp after a cold start before it allows return to about 200 degrees?"

I had not noticed an up and down coolant temperature cold start behavior. I just ran a test, for what it might be worth. Parked car in dry garage, 72 degrees OAT on car dashboard sensor, probably 100% humidity because it is raining and steamy, brand new 7 quarts Pennzoil 0W-40 Ultra Performance oil, new SRT filter, hood closed, two high ceiling fans on, one floor fan not directed into engine but alongside car towards doors, two garage doors open.

Time in minutes from cold start 0003 0006 0009 0013 0018 0020 0023 0028 (beyond 28 minutes time all parameters stabilized)
Coolant temperature 130 163 195 204 212 213 221 224
Oil temperature 96 114 143 184 204 213 212 210
Oil pressure 62 57 49 48 47 46 46 46

Couple of observations - front side fenders hot to the touch after shutdown, and...I was surprised the oil temperature got to 210 after 28 minutes almost all at idle RPM. I did rev the engine twice, briefly, to 2,000 RPM, at 18 minutes and again at 23 minutes. I'm thinking it could be normal for the Red Eye coolant to get right up there to 230 before coming down. Usually when I'm cruising around easy on the power and going 45-55 mph coolant is steady about 200 degrees. I discovered there is a 120 second history graph for the selected engine parameters. Next time I'm on track and coming off track I'll hit the camera icon and save the values.

Honestly, and given TrackDay and your observed higher track temperatures, I'm questioning only a 23 degree oil temperature rise from what I'd describe as a hot idling engine to roaring around the National Corvette Museum track. I feel confident I never saw more than 233 degrees oil temperature on these comfortable spring weekends. I drove with it up on the screen and I got in the habit of checking it coming off track. There is dedicated air ducting to cool the engine oil radiator so maybe when my car was moving...

The engine exhaust sound was bonus.

Finface

PS - I am really interested in the investigation of your supercharger failures, and I'm wondering if all Red Eye owners would be smart to every time they drive their cars select full Track mode the last few minutes before engine shutdown - to direct AC towards cooling the engine those last few minutes and maybe even more importantly continuing to cool the SC (and via conduction also the engine). The engine felt plenty hot today at its stabilized idling temperatures.
 
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BULL

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#85
On my 2015 Scat Pack, after four years, 34,000 miles and over 175 runs on a drag strip, I had drained 22.8 ounces of oil from my catch can.

I only have 6,400 miles on my 2019, and only 89 runs on the strip; maybe at most 3.5 ounces collected.

As mentioned previously, the Arrington CCV Bible suggests extensive WOT driving might even prevent oil from being captured by the catch can, but control of crankcase pressure is even more important for FI cars than us NA slugs.

22.8oz???

You drained nearly 3/4 of a quart of oil from a catch can?

Impressive, that's one big ass catch-can. :unsure:
 

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#86

BULL

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#87
Go back and re-read…

Ok, I re-read it...

It still says the same thing, you drained 22.8oz of oil from your catch-can after four years.


Perhaps you mean to say that during 4 years of time in total, you drained 22.8oz of oil from your catch-can?
 
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#88
No, I said what I said. I run one currently on the driver's side and it catches zero oil. Bone dry. Would running one on the passenger side catch oil?
Perhaps the line is clogged
 

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#89
There's next to no blowby on that side.
 
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#90
Does it make it faster?
 

BULL

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#91
Does it make it faster?

Oil in the combustion process will reduce the overall octane and therefor increase STK

STK reduces power.

Catch-cans reduce oil ingested into the combustion camber.

Therefor the theory is that Catch-cans "make it faster"... :unsure:
 

fumanchu182

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#92
Perhaps the line is clogged
Line is not clogged but on my most recent post the passenger side one collected oil. Glad I had it so it wasn't going into my chambers.
 

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#93
Has anyone, anywhere...ever heard of anything being caught in the driver's side can?

Mine was bone dry for 2 years. Now sitting in the loft of my garage. Can't get rid of it...because i don't think there is anyone that would have any use for it...
 
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Thread Starter #94
Has anyone, anywhere...ever heard of anything being caught in the driver's side can?

Mine was bone dry for 2 years. Now sitting in the loft of my garage. Can't get rid of it...because i don't think there is anyone that would have any use for it...
Holy shit, I see I am the OP here! Go check out my first post. Yes, it produces a little.
 

McLovin

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Holy shit, I see I am the OP here! Go check out my first post. Yes, it produces a little.
Is that from the driver's side though?

My 6.1 caught a bunch. Never tracked it, and would get close to half a can in 2 or 3 thousand miles. The hellcat? Passenger side can catches enough to just cover the bottom after driving the same distance (with a couple of track days thrown in).

But the can for the driver's side (mounted up near the firewall) never even so much as had any oil film inside it. I had to remove it when I put my strut tower brace on, but no loss since it wasn't doing anything anyway.
 
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Thread Starter #96
Is that from the driver's side though?

My 6.1 caught a bunch. Never tracked it, and would get close to half a can in 2 or 3 thousand miles. The hellcat? Passenger side can catches enough to just cover the bottom after driving the same distance (with a couple of track days thrown in).

But the can for the driver's side (mounted up near the firewall) never even so much as had any oil film inside it. I had to remove it when I put my strut tower brace on, but no loss since it wasn't doing anything anyway.
It is, it was the common simple install. I know what I saw of the remains of my supercharger last week certainly did not suffer from any oil inside. That was the least of its problems. I should be able to take another peek at it and probably the other internals today when I visit the patient in the rest home because I believe they had to take it all apart to prove yours truly had not turned any of its screws yet.
 

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#97
Not a Redeye, but I see in excess of 270 oil temp at the end of a 20 minute track session.

Never noticed the coolant temp doing that on startup, but I'll specifically look for it to see what mine does...
Watched mine today.

Went up steadily to 202, then dropped quickly to 195. Then settled in between 197-199. Ambient air around 65 - 70. Intake air temp between 95 - 100. Backroad gentile cruising....
 

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#98
Not a Redeye, but I see in excess of 270 oil temp at the end of a 20 minute track session.

Never noticed the coolant temp doing that on startup, but I'll specifically look for it to see what mine does...
Screen Shot 2021-03-18 at 3.59.09 PM copy.png
 

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It was 113 here today. Expected for the next week from 110-113. Everything is on fire here. I had to take my catch can off as the 105 mm throttle body got in the way. What is a good catch can and bracket combo with a 105 mm throttle body?
 

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I just have to wonder why Redeyes, Demons (and Hellephants?) came with a standard MO-899?
A fair question. I posted the quote from an article about the SRT filter having a stronger casing and, supposedly, less likelihood of oil bypassing the filter.

I guess the same answer I've gotten from people involved in the home building business could apply to the stock filter - it all comes down to money and pricing your product to sell. My question was why would home builders use nails and screws that rust and then have rust streaks on exterior surfaces - why not use stainless steel nails and screws? And the answer was the price difference.

Given that oil and filter changes are maintenance items most here pay attention to it probably doesn't matter too much if oil occasionally bypassed an oil filter.
 

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