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I think if you guys have not had any issue I would leave well enough alone. Maybe this thread will help someone that has not done them yet. Here is pic with 24mm dowel
They make a dowel puller and that is probably what is needed. I may just throw the spacer on and next year when I change the pulley maybe I will put the dowels in. Sounds like no one is having trouble with throw belts so it must line up pretty good. I want to get it done Saturday and have asked a few people and none have a dowel puller
Didn't think they were going to be a big deal to get them out until now
Fwiw I've had the spacers and blanket on for about 8,000 miles now . I was one of the first few to get them . I have no issues so far . That being said I do like the idea of the longer dowels so I will be getting a set for this winter's upgrades when I have it apart again . I would also like to change the bolts from Allen head to something more stock appearing . I heard there was someone who made a set out of titanium. If this true and have a link that would be great .
Fwiw I've had the spacers and blanket on for about 8,000 miles now . I was one of the first few to get them . I have no issues so far . That being said I do like the idea of the longer dowels so I will be getting a set for this winter's upgrades when I have it apart again . I would also like to change the bolts from Allen head to something more stock appearing . I heard there was someone who made a set out of titanium. If this true and have a link that would be great .
@Paladin06 , did the titanium s/c bolts $220 , I thought about doing them too , if & when my s/c needs to come off again I'll do these updated upgrades.
@Paladin06 , did the titanium s/c bolts $220 , I thought about doing them too , if & when my s/c needs to come off again I'll do these updated upgrades.
Sounds like more of a pain in the ass than worth the positive out come. I think mine is just fine. But,, good luck. Maybe the factory might learn sumtin from this,,, don't think so.
The vents aren’t the shiny balls, the shinny balls are plugs to seal drill ports, the vents are the pourous silver items, 2 of them next to the shinny balls. They are connected to these ports between the seals and bearings in the gear case side of the supercharger. See the hole drilled through this bolt, this is how the gear case breaths as well. It’s important these vents remain open, they went through allot of pains (expense) to make these ports!!
I think you left the wrong holes uncovered, the vent ports are the porous looking silver things not the shinny balls, there seal plugs, they can be covered.
All these ports all also connected to the suction side of the blower through this port. So have them sealed off isn’t the end of the world but it probably causes more of a negative pressure (vacuum) in those areas then designed, which could possibly take oil out of the gear case and one would never know it’s leaking then. The bolt with the hole in it goes into the faster spinning rotor lobe, it is cross drilled to have a port between the seals and the bearings. The taper it has is to help centrifugal force separate oil out of the air that would leave the gear case which should be about next to nothing as it’s there to keep the gear case equalized to atmospheric pressure. See this port on the inlet side of the blower, it’s under the rotors on the right.
I think you left the wrong holes uncovered, the vent ports are the porous looking silver things not the shinny balls, there seal plugs, they can be covered.
This blower puked oil out those vents for some reason. This was a FAS MOTORSPORTS rebuild, could have been their shotty work though, the vents did their job. Most likely the rotors seals where shot or installed wrong pressurizing the gear case and it blew the oil out through the hollow vent bolt through these ports on the bottom
No, it wasn’t. The owner wasn’t very happy with his purchase from FAS MOTORSPORTS either, they boned him and didn’t own up to replacing the blower either.
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