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How much oil really… track results

drag racer

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#61
I had an unplanned opportunity to let my pan and cooler drain for a week back in the day, and it took 7.5qt to fill to the top of the correct stick.
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #62
I had an unplanned opportunity to let my pan and cooler drain for a week back in the day, and it took 7.5qt to fill to the top of the correct stick.
I always drain way more than 7 qts when I change my oil and drain the cooler, I chalk it up to fuel contamination/e85 soaking up moisture from sitting. There’s an o2 sensor (all ) change coming in the near further. But worried about the widebands - the downstream ones gave me issues on one side due to heat, stripped the threads taking it out - should have applied some heat first. Expecting the widebands to be worse
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #63
I had an unplanned opportunity to let my pan and cooler drain for a week back in the day, and it took 7.5qt to fill to the top of the correct stick.
Don’t say that, that’s the original 2015 manual spec lol
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #64
Always amazes me how much you get out of the cooler. I had my pan off to change the gasket/windage trey, and can confirm ALL oil drains from the pan by simply pulling the plug with the car level. Had the engine open for a day or 2, no residual oil dripping from crank/ piston squiters/anything. All other oil is held up in the cooler/cooler lines. Without tilting car, not getting it all out - but curious how much oil is actually stuck in limbo there
 


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Thread Starter #65
also, never change the oil when the car/oil is cold. Warm it up, let it sit for 5 or so minutes
 


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#66
hotter the better. I went to Fumoto valves on all my fleet a few years ago and makes it a lot easier to drain when hot.
 


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Thread Starter #67
I’ve been changing my own oil on the car for going on 7 years along with all its other maintenance (which is close to nothing, amazing car). I typically put the 7, but thought I’d bring it up here and see what the consensus is.
 


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#68
also, never change the oil when the car/oil is cold. Warm it up, let it sit for 5 or so minutes

Agreed, I pull all the covers off, then drive around to full temp, then pull in to the garage and up on to the ramps, pull the drains and let them drain, usually for several hours.
 


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#69
I know I change my oil every couple weeks. Mine on a pass I have low oil pressure threw 3 gears down as low as 29. When it pick back up it’s over IMG_6462.jpeg IMG_6461.jpeg 90.
So I can also tell you this my Buick with a rear sump when I throw the chute loss oil pressure on deceleration. I know I pulled the bearing on mine and still look great. I do use VR1 20w50.
 


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#70
Agreed, I pull all the covers off, then drive around to full temp, then pull in to the garage and up on to the ramps, pull the drains and let them drain, usually for several hours.
It’s that last drop that is going to contaminate the new oil…[wrenchin]
 


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Thread Starter #71
I know I change my oil every couple weeks. Mine on a pass I have low oil pressure threw 3 gears down as low as 29. When it pick back up it’s over View attachment 109842 View attachment 109843 90.
So I can also tell you this my Buick with a rear sump when I throw the chute loss oil pressure on deceleration. I know I pulled the bearing on mine and still look great. I do use VR1 20w50.
7qts? Interesting about the rear sump pressure dropping on decel which makes sense - front sump you should gain oil pressure on decel
 


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#72
It’s that last drop that is going to contaminate the new oil…[wrenchin]
I have been known to pour part of a fresh quart in while the drain plug is out just to flush some of the remnants
 


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Thread Starter #73
I had 10 track passes and about 1k street miles just changed oil because it was 9 months old from when I did my oil pan gasket, still looked new. You will see e85 is not kind to the pennzoil 0-w40. I’m interested to see what what oil the demon 170 has recommended or what they state for oil change intervals. If you read any of the manuals for any of the flex fuel cars dodge has, they use a heavier weight specifically because of e85, not exactly sure why. You also lose lubicity with e85, it doesn’t have the detergents that gasoline does. I believe that’s why the demon has different valve guide material and potentially piston rings. Still a lot of unknowns about the 170 engine
 


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#74
I have been known to pour part of a fresh quart in while the drain plug is out just to flush some of the remnents

There's another "thing" I do to get out some oil from another location, but the last time I shared that with the group, people had little baby cows all over the forum.
 


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Thread Starter #75
There's another "thing" I do to get out some oil from another location, but the last time I shared that with the group, people had little baby cows all over the forum.
You blow into the oil fill port don’t you
 


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#76
7qts? Interesting about the rear sump pressure dropping on decel which makes sense - front sump you should gain oil pressure on decel
Yes 7qt. I may put a 11 qt on when it becomes available
 


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#77
You blow into the oil fill port don’t you


No, but now that you bring it up... :unsure:


:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 


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#78
Change the oil and filter after each event and I was running race gas.
 


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#79
also, never change the oil when the car/oil is cold. Warm it up, let it sit for 5 or so minutes
explain to me why you think that is better?
 


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#80
explain to me why you think that is better?

Oil viscosity is much lower, oil comes out better, sticks less inside, thinner layers, etc etc etc,

(Less old oil)
 




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