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supercharger oil change?

Whatknot

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#61
yes sir I found them but I could only found 2 there were three balls but only 2 slots close to the balls only in the back in of charger I was wondering why 3 balls plugs but 2 hole

Must resist the urge to make comments on balls and holes...
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #62
there is a whole thread on this but I think there are only 2 on the bottom
ok thats good then I open them and also the balls just in case....even though it dont make sense to me if it's breather there no sign of any oil on the bottom.And it seems to me if air can escape from the bottom why can't oil.
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #63
Must resist the urge to make comments on balls and holes...
I was thinking that when I was posting....but I thought what the h$ll....lol
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#64
ok thats good then I open them and also the balls just in case....even though it dont make sense to me if it's breather there no sign of any oil on the bottom.And it seems to me if air can escape from the bottom why can't oil.
The balls just seal drilled holes, they can be covered. The 2 smaller silver rough looking things are the breather vents, they need to be open. They breath through the DS rotor shaft is hollow drilled to a depth that puts it between the air side seal and the oil side seal and the bolt that holds the gear on to the rotor shaft (left hand thread one) has a tiny hole drilled in the center of it that allows the gear case to breath but being on center while spinning no oil can ever get to it as it’s all centrifugally kept away from the hole. Be careful flipping the blower around, it’s ok to flip it over just don’t stand it up vertically with the snout up or oil will get in that passage and then leak out through those vents when it’s back in it’s proper orientation. The SC only hold about 8 oz of oil and if you fill it incorrectly through the top hole you will put the oil right into that vent hole in the center of the gear bolt and it will leak all over once on the car. Neither the upper nor the The lower plugs are level plugs, the SC is filled by volume not level of those 1/8” plugs with magnets on them. Personally unless leaking or over heated leave it alone, the oil does not need changed unless there’s a ton of miles on it, like 100,000 plus or it leaked or was severely over heated. The SC has magnets inside it that filter the oil before it’s fed down into the rear bearings, super strong ones, see the nail the one holds straight out from it in the picture? Both bearing oil ports have them and their actually opposite polarity of each other to catch all particles no matter their polarity. There is a hole in the center of the bolt in the smaller gear, I couldn’t find a picture of it but trust me it’s there. That’s the vent hole for the gear case. See the breather next to the shinny ball? There’s 2 or them, don’t seal them over with the blanket or you’ll push the oil into the supercharger and into the engine and you’ll have no clue it’s empty till it fails. B96342BA-3B45-4E4B-B15B-9EA4B635B6A6.jpeg D7287A40-BDF8-426C-B1D5-E6195B7FCC8C.jpeg D12ED340-7B1A-4EE0-8582-9F1195C4C87C.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#65
The rotor on the left, look at the shaft about 10 o’clock, see the tiny cross drilled hole? That lines up to between the seals in the housing that leads to those stone filter vents. The bolt in the smaller gear has a taper in its center that leads to a tiny hole that connects to that hole in the side of the shaft. The taper helps it sling oil away from the hole in the center so no oil ever gets out no matter the torrent inside. That little gear spins about 25,000 rpm so it does a great job being a centrifugal oil separator lol 22BC6007-3209-4CB8-B243-AE7CF20838E8.jpeg F082D6E2-210B-444E-943D-FCCE968094F8.jpeg 9623888D-87A3-47AF-BBCD-AD929A01AEEA.jpeg
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #66
I have already put the spacers and blanket on and everything is back together I decided against changing the s/c oil but did make new dowel 10mm longer it went pretty easy.My son-in -law was late so I put it back on by myself....after setting charger on 2x4's over the radiator I was able to get one foot in the hole where the air filter was at and the other on shock tower and just picked it up and set dowel on the holes on heads it them on first try....lol the rest was a cake walk....i/c temp stayed around 95 but when got down on it they got up to 112 but came back down soon after....and it's pulling real hard a lot of torque!!! I'm not going to drive anymore till my boostane get's here 17lbs. is as much as I want right now.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#67
Here’s the vent next to a seal ball
710777DA-27B6-4A2B-BD30-54B0C34B2BD0.jpeg 588EC587-848D-46AD-B712-0BF9BE27F822.jpeg
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #68
The rotor on the left, look at the shaft about 10 o’clock, see the tiny cross drilled hole? That lines up to between the seals in the housing that leads to those stone filter vents. The bolt in the smaller gear has a taper in its center that leads to a tiny hole that connects to that hole in the side of the shaft. The taper helps it sling oil away from the hole in the center so no oil ever gets out no matter the torrent inside. That little gear spins about 25,000 rpm so it does a great job being a centrifugal oil separator lol View attachment 51008 View attachment 51009 View attachment 51010
I know when I took the s/c off there was no sign oil or everything for that matter but maybe dust a little dirt/dust....I did reclock that damn bottom cooler hose if I eve have to take it back off it'll be easier
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#69
I have already put the spacers and blanket on and everything is back together I decided against changing the s/c oil but did make new dowel 10mm longer it went pretty easy.My son-in -law was late so I put it back on by myself....after setting charger on 2x4's over the radiator I was able to get one foot in the hole where the air filter was at and the other on shock tower and just picked it up and set dowel on the holes on heads it them on first try....lol the rest was a cake walk....i/c temp stayed around 95 but when got down on it they got up to 112 but came back down soon after....and it's pulling real hard a lot of torque!!! I'm not going to drive anymore till my boostane get's here 17lbs. is as much as I want right now.
Be careful with the MMT, it plays hell on the exhaust valves and exhaust valve seats. I used it for about a year supporting 17 psi of boost on 93. It builds up in the exhaust valve tulips and fills them in increasing the CR and causing detonation even more over time. It’s not worth the extra 30-40 HP. NOTHING gets it out once it’s deposited, nothing short of a sanding disk or sand blaster.
 


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#70
If any of you guys are running this cooling system that came from petty along with the tower brace....you need to check your super charger hose that under the tank.When I took mine off the hose was damn near wore thru...you cant see it without taking the tank loose.
I did not like the tank or mostly that tight fit behind the supercharger it has after I installed one. I don’t think it helps the lean that much either. The one I bought is on the shelf. I have the big beefy BMR sway bar on the front that will need to be enough.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#71
I have already put the spacers and blanket on and everything is back together I decided against changing the s/c oil but did make new dowel 10mm longer it went pretty easy.My son-in -law was late so I put it back on by myself....after setting charger on 2x4's over the radiator I was able to get one foot in the hole where the air filter was at and the other on shock tower and just picked it up and set dowel on the holes on heads it them on first try....lol the rest was a cake walk....i/c temp stayed around 95 but when got down on it they got up to 112 but came back down soon after....and it's pulling real hard a lot of torque!!! I'm not going to drive anymore till my boostane get's here 17lbs. is as much as I want right now.
How many dowel pins did you use? Hopefully only 2 on one head only?
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #72
yep I uncovered both vent's and the balls also before I found the vent but anyway it's done now...got a sore back but if you have the drive and want to it can be done without a engine host or bud's.....and just for the record I dont drink I was just joking around I might drink 6 beers in a week or maybe a month just depends....thanks all you guys help...thats what makes us car guys how we are.It makes it easier when someone has been there and has the knowledge to help out
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #73
How many dowel pins did you use? Hopefully only 2 on one head only?
yes 2 on the passenger side
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #74
I did not like the tank or mostly that tight fit behind the supercharger it has after I installed one. I don’t think it helps the lean that much either. The one I bought is on the shelf. I have the big beefy BMR sway bar on the front that will need to be enough.
I dont either later I going to change to a different strut brace and go back stock coolant tank
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #75
Be careful with the MMT, it plays hell on the exhaust valves and exhaust valve seats. I used it for about a year supporting 17 psi of boost on 93. It builds up in the exhaust valve tulips and fills them in increasing the CR and causing detonation even more over time. It’s not worth the extra 30-40 HP. NOTHING gets it out once it’s deposited, nothing short of a sanding disk or sand blaster.
MMT? remember now I'm a older guy and not real computer savvy
 


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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #76
I did not like the tank or mostly that tight fit behind the supercharger it has after I installed one. I don’t think it helps the lean that much either. The one I bought is on the shelf. I have the big beefy BMR sway bar on the front that will need to be enough.
I'm going with brm also I have there rear brace and ordered there sub-frame connector's over a month ago and havent heard anything about them yet nothing
 


Mean Cat

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#77
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rookerrobert

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Thread Starter #78
I'm trying to remember if I covered those vents ? ...are they on the bottom of s/c or on the gear cover at the back ?
there on the bottom right across from one another only the thing on the back the 2 oil plugs and chrysler plague
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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#79
MMT? remember now I'm a older guy and not real computer savvy
MMT is a lead substitute and what’s in octane boosters to increase their detonation resistance the same as increased octane does but it unfortunately leaves a build up behind that fouls plugs, cats, and O2 sensors, all of which can be replaced but it also builds up in the exhaust valve and exhaust seats which can only be fixed by removing the heads and doing a valve job. I know from experience, I won’t use it anymore and I used to buy it by the case and swear by it. Not no more. See the before and after pics on these heads, see the tulip depression in the clean exhaust valve? See how the dirty ones don’t have much of a depression? That’s because it’s filled in with MMT. Also dirty valve verse a clean valve, take note to the valve seat area, the build up after time makes them leak.
E69D36DA-B4FC-4C8E-809B-2D4B93C0DF63.jpeg 53652E60-1632-47FD-81B7-319386ECA3FE.jpeg 515BDC3D-DDC3-4285-AE8C-1F1C7AAA5781.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#80
I'm trying to remember if I covered those vents ? ...are they on the bottom of s/c or on the gear cover at the back ?
On the bottom
 




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