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TNREDEYE '21 REWB

Marc0779

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#81
I now have 3 beat up boxes sitting in the floor from FedEx. It took them 2 days to actually get all 3 boxes here. :rolleyes:
So.. it looks like I'll be pulling some wheels off soon and diving in. I suspect I'll know more about Redeye/SS brakes soon that I EVER really wanted to.

Question: is the rear caster adjustable on these cars without replacing the arms? This car clearly has a LOT of negative camber(visibly more than my '19) and obviously that will need correcting soon.
Bo they make offset rubber bushings that press into the stock arms
 
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TNREDEYE

TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #82
Thanks Marc. I'm somewhat behind the times where rear suspension stuff is concerned with these cars. After spending some time looking over the stock suspension arms I may just bite the bullet and go ahead and get the AAD stuff.

I drove the car some last night. The initial grip of the SS stuff vs the RE stuff is a LOT less. I have to push farther and harder to slow the car. I'll re bleed the brakes one more time but I'm thinking this may just be the way it is.
Also, the car won't hold/stage at 2000 rpms. I can barely get it to sit still at 2000 and if I try to "bump" it forward like I'm staging it rolls way too far.
 

Marc0779

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#83
Thanks Marc. I'm somewhat behind the times where rear suspension stuff is concerned with these cars. After spending some time looking over the stock suspension arms I may just bite the bullet and go ahead and get the AAD stuff.

I drove the car some last night. The initial grip of the SS stuff vs the RE stuff is a LOT less. I have to push farther and harder to slow the car. I'll re bleed the brakes one more time but I'm thinking this may just be the way it is.
Also, the car won't hold/stage at 2000 rpms. I can barely get it to sit still at 2000 and if I try to "bump" it forward like I'm staging it rolls way too far.
The aad stuff is first class quality you can go .2 positive on the rear and lock it in and you wont have to adjust it again also the bmr cradle lockouts help to plant the rear these cars have 1.5 negative from the factory which hurts straight line grip,will you be going to mshs north carolina?
 
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TNREDEYE

TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #84
Thanks for the info Marc. I'm not really looking forward to dropping the cradle but knowing the direction this car is headed it just makes sense to get it out of the way.

And I don't know about the mshs. My mom passed in January and we suddenly have 7 more rentals to keep track of for my dad. It's hard to schedule much of anything right now. It would be a fun one to go to though.
 

Marc0779

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#85
Thanks for the info Marc. I'm not really looking forward to dropping the cradle but knowing the direction this car is headed it just makes sense to get it out of the way.

And I don't know about the mshs. My mom passed in January and we suddenly have 7 more rentals to keep track of for my dad. It's hard to schedule much of anything right now. It would be a fun one to go to though.
Sorry about your mom,there is no need to drop the cradle for the lockouts,its a 20 minute job i have a trick to do it easy.
 

DRAGRCR

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#86
Thanks Marc. I'm somewhat behind the times where rear suspension stuff is concerned with these cars. After spending some time looking over the stock suspension arms I may just bite the bullet and go ahead and get the AAD stuff.

I drove the car some last night. The initial grip of the SS stuff vs the RE stuff is a LOT less. I have to push farther and harder to slow the car. I'll re bleed the brakes one more time but I'm thinking this may just be the way it is.
Also, the car won't hold/stage at 2000 rpms. I can barely get it to sit still at 2000 and if I try to "bump" it forward like I'm staging it rolls way too far.
Maybe the Pads are not bedded in yet? My Brakes are almost too powerful if anything (all stock including pads). My Friends just put all the AAD stuff and cradle lockouts on a RedEye a couple weeks ago. They adjusted the rear camber at the track yesterday. Once it is aligned you can just change out the numbered shims using basic math to make adjustments.
 

DRAGRCR

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#87
600 miles and 67 passes
. 0417210848.jpg
 
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TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #88
Maybe the Pads are not bedded in yet? My Brakes are almost too powerful if anything (all stock including pads). My Friends just put all the AAD stuff and cradle lockouts on a RedEye a couple weeks ago. They adjusted the rear camber at the track yesterday. Once it is aligned you can just change out the numbered shims using basic math to make adjustments.
At this point I have over 150 miles on them, including going through the proper bedding process. They're still a good bit weaker then the 6 piston stuff. I'll be bleeding the brakes one more time tomorrow and then, time permitting, we'll head back to Music City to see how it runs. It's a bit lighter from the brakes/skinnies and I'd like to think it'll maybe et a bit better just because that injector is now working correctly.
 
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TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #89
UPDATE:

Last night went well.
I was able to do a thorough re-bleeding of the front brakes. I let them gravity bleed for several minutes and then did the typical pressure bleed a few times after. I got zero air on the pressure bleeds and the pedal is a good bit better. As would be expected, the 4 piston 14 inch rotor setup isn't nearly as strong as the 6 piston 15+ inch rotor setup. It's what I'd call sufficient by comparison.

We were able to get to Music City. I made 4 runs in pretty rapid succession. The car ran notably better. It's quicker and faster at every measured interval. It ran 147-1.48 sixty foot and 6.74/6.75 eighth mile et on all 4 runs. The mph is what I'm most happy about. Two weeks ago the 6.90's were accompanied by mph of 100/101. This weeks 6.70's were accompanied by 104/105 mph. Not bad for a full weight car on a Tuesday night prep. For reference the DA last night was around 2000 ft during the time I was making my passes. There was a cold front coming in that had rain in it so we didn't stay for the cooler air for fear we'd end up an hour from home in the rain with those ET R's.

It's nice to see the car acting like it should.

I'll be ordering the AAD arms and BMR cradle lockouts shortly. I'm going to go ahead and get the BWoody shorter sway bar links as well. I've never had an issue w either car when running the 17" wheels on the rears but if I have to spend a bunch of time under it installing the other stuff I might as well put them in while I'm under there. Hopefully I can get the stuff in a decent timeframe and get back to the track with that setup before the hot weather gets here for the summer...
 

DRAGRCR

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#90
UPDATE:

Last night went well.
I was able to do a thorough re-bleeding of the front brakes. I let them gravity bleed for several minutes and then did the typical pressure bleed a few times after. I got zero air on the pressure bleeds and the pedal is a good bit better. As would be expected, the 4 piston 14 inch rotor setup isn't nearly as strong as the 6 piston 15+ inch rotor setup. It's what I'd call sufficient by comparison.

We were able to get to Music City. I made 4 runs in pretty rapid succession. The car ran notably better. It's quicker and faster at every measured interval. It ran 147-1.48 sixty foot and 6.74/6.75 eighth mile et on all 4 runs. The mph is what I'm most happy about. Two weeks ago the 6.90's were accompanied by mph of 100/101. This weeks 6.70's were accompanied by 104/105 mph. Not bad for a full weight car on a Tuesday night prep. For reference the DA last night was around 2000 ft during the time I was making my passes. There was a cold front coming in that had rain in it so we didn't stay for the cooler air for fear we'd end up an hour from home in the rain with those ET R's.

It's nice to see the car acting like it should.

I'll be ordering the AAD arms and BMR cradle lockouts shortly. I'm going to go ahead and get the BWoody shorter sway bar links as well. I've never had an issue w either car when running the 17" wheels on the rears but if I have to spend a bunch of time under it installing the other stuff I might as well put them in while I'm under there. Hopefully I can get the stuff in a decent timeframe and get back to the track with that setup before the hot weather gets here for the summer...
Yes that MPH would make me happy. Especially at full weight and +2000 DA. How did it shift?
 
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TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #91
Yes that MPH would make me happy. Especially at full weight and +2000 DA. How did it shift?
I was hoping for some better DA but the good air came in along w some pretty ominous looking clouds, so we aired up the tires and got the heck out of there. I checked the DA when I got home and it was 1100 ft. I really wish we could have stayed another hour. I'm guessing I might have eeked out a .60. It had already run to suit me and I SURE didn't want to get caught that far from home in the rain though.

It still shifts HARD. It rattles the tires on the 1-2 shift every time. It feels just like that vid of your car looks. I'm thinking I'll get the rear suspension stuff replaced and get the tires where they actually sit flat on the ground across the tread and will go back to see if that helps it not rattle like that. And then go from there...

Worth noting is that the brakes work and feel "right" now but it flat won't hold at 2k rpm on the line. All I can get it to and still have good enough stopping power to bump it into the 2nd light is around 1700. It's not that big of a deal but it does have me wondering what else is different between a big brake car and a little brake car. A proportioning valve maybe?
 

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#92
I was hoping for some better DA but the good air came in along w some pretty ominous looking clouds, so we aired up the tires and got the heck out of there. I checked the DA when I got home and it was 1100 ft. I really wish we could have stayed another hour. I'm guessing I might have eeked out a .60. It had already run to suit me and I SURE didn't want to get caught that far from home in the rain though.

It still shifts HARD. It rattles the tires on the 1-2 shift every time. It feels just like that vid of your car looks. I'm thinking I'll get the rear suspension stuff replaced and get the tires where they actually sit flat on the ground across the tread and will go back to see if that helps it not rattle like that. And then go from there...

Worth noting is that the brakes work and feel "right" now but it flat won't hold at 2k rpm on the line. All I can get it to and still have good enough stopping power to bump it into the 2nd light is around 1700. It's not that big of a deal but it does have me
wondering what else is different between a big brake car and a little brake car. A proportioning valve maybe?
I think you might be onto something. Because I had no issues getting to 2100 RPM or so. But, you have a converted car. Not all OEM. The only thing I will ask is did you use OEM Pads? Which ones? Not sure if there are even different ones to choose from.
 

Speedy!

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#93
Maybe different torque converter settings in the tune?
 
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TNREDEYE

TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #94
I think you might be onto something. Because I had no issues getting to 2100 RPM or so. But, you have a converted car. Not all OEM. The only thing I will ask is did you use OEM Pads? Which ones? Not sure if there are even different ones to choose from.
All front brake/knuckle components were spec'd for your car.. 2020 SS. All stock Mopar stuff, incl pads. FWIW - I saw a 1320 at the track last night and it has the same stuff on it.
I'll be looking into the proportioning valve idea tomorrow.
 
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Thread Starter #95
Maybe different torque converter settings in the tune?
I had that thought. I tried it on the street in Auto, Sport and Track. None seemed any different from the others.
Also, I've made all my runs so far in straight Track mode. I'll be trying other settings but since it didn't run so good first time out I thought it best to minimize the variables from one outing to the next.

Edit: Or were you referring to different settings in the tunes between the RE and the SS?
 
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Speedy!

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#96
Tune differences RE vs SS. I know the Demon has some unique settings for the torque converter.
 

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#97
(jealousy)
 
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TNREDEYE

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Thread Starter #98
Tune differences RE vs SS. I know the Demon has some unique settings for the torque converter.
That's a thought. I know both my RE's will(would?) go to 2k rpm and still stage pretty easily. This one just flat won't do that anymore. It's not a huge issue but I wasn't expecting the loss of sitting still braking power.
 
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Thread Starter #99
This has nothing to do with anything really, I just thought it was a cool picture. Last night at our local cruise in. His and hers. :giggle: 20210423_194712.jpg
 

Speedy!

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It sure is nice to be getting back to normal. Hit my first cruise a couple weeks ago.
 


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